‘HEMKUND’
A
JOURNEY
TO
THE
GODS
- Sardar Ravel Singh
www.hemkundji.com
A
JOURNEY
TO
THE
GODS
- Sardar Ravel Singh
www.hemkundji.com
Friday, January 11, 2008
PREFACE
PREFACE
One evening, as I was chit chatting with an old man, a reference emanated from his talk that he was going to visit Sri Hazoor Sahib as he had already been to Hemkund Sahib. As I told him that I had visited Hazoor Sahib three times but Hemkund Sahib never, he encouraged me to visit Hemkund Sahib at the first available opportunity, as time and tide wait for none. Feeling strongly encouraged with this piece of advice, this awareness in me made me believe that the opportune time to visit Hemkund Sahib had come for me. With this blessed inspiration, yatra to Hemkund Sahib got materialized.
First of all, I contacted the Chairman of the yatra committee who organized the pilgrimage to Sri Hemkund Sahib every year. Two seats were got booked - one for me and one for my better-half. The chairman Mr. Amar Jeet Singh, a devotee and blessed regular visitor to the Holy Place, enlightened me a lot with his experience. The yatra was fixed for 5th to l0th July 2002.
We gathered inputs to make good use there of in our journey. Many a time in the past I had desired to visit Hemkund Sahib, but in general parlance, one should admit that there was no call from the Holy Place. It was essentially the fulfillment of a life time desire, so I decided to note down the details of the long desired yatra in a comprehensive and smooth manner - as far as possible.
Here, I may mention that every yatra is a unique experience in itself even if repeated. So, this description is separate in its identity and it may not be comparable with any other pilgrimage of the past or that of the future tense.
The description has not been loaded with pithy historical references but kept light and casual. The under current has been to maintain rapport amongst the yatri, the Nature and the Creator. The yatri, or even nobody or nothing is alone in the grand design of Nature. So, the movement of the pilgrim and the visual aspects of his surroundings have been depicted so lively, so as to make the reader feel, as if he himself was the traveller. Effort has been made to pen down every act, event, feeling, desire, lapse and surprise of the pilgrim in a cogent and flowing style. Being face to face with nature and one of the co-travellers, the pilgrim in his un-assumed natural manner, continues to refresh his bookish information. This aspect is also an additional feather in this writing.
The achievement lies in the completion of this writing, the inspiration for which came from above and enthusiasm flowed from my better-half Paramjit Kaur. I feel, that in the ensuing pages, the reader would find an interesting, attractive and lively description of the yatra to Sri Hemkund Sahib.
Dehradun RAVEL SINGH
May 2003
www.hemkundji.com
One evening, as I was chit chatting with an old man, a reference emanated from his talk that he was going to visit Sri Hazoor Sahib as he had already been to Hemkund Sahib. As I told him that I had visited Hazoor Sahib three times but Hemkund Sahib never, he encouraged me to visit Hemkund Sahib at the first available opportunity, as time and tide wait for none. Feeling strongly encouraged with this piece of advice, this awareness in me made me believe that the opportune time to visit Hemkund Sahib had come for me. With this blessed inspiration, yatra to Hemkund Sahib got materialized.
First of all, I contacted the Chairman of the yatra committee who organized the pilgrimage to Sri Hemkund Sahib every year. Two seats were got booked - one for me and one for my better-half. The chairman Mr. Amar Jeet Singh, a devotee and blessed regular visitor to the Holy Place, enlightened me a lot with his experience. The yatra was fixed for 5th to l0th July 2002.
We gathered inputs to make good use there of in our journey. Many a time in the past I had desired to visit Hemkund Sahib, but in general parlance, one should admit that there was no call from the Holy Place. It was essentially the fulfillment of a life time desire, so I decided to note down the details of the long desired yatra in a comprehensive and smooth manner - as far as possible.
Here, I may mention that every yatra is a unique experience in itself even if repeated. So, this description is separate in its identity and it may not be comparable with any other pilgrimage of the past or that of the future tense.
The description has not been loaded with pithy historical references but kept light and casual. The under current has been to maintain rapport amongst the yatri, the Nature and the Creator. The yatri, or even nobody or nothing is alone in the grand design of Nature. So, the movement of the pilgrim and the visual aspects of his surroundings have been depicted so lively, so as to make the reader feel, as if he himself was the traveller. Effort has been made to pen down every act, event, feeling, desire, lapse and surprise of the pilgrim in a cogent and flowing style. Being face to face with nature and one of the co-travellers, the pilgrim in his un-assumed natural manner, continues to refresh his bookish information. This aspect is also an additional feather in this writing.
The achievement lies in the completion of this writing, the inspiration for which came from above and enthusiasm flowed from my better-half Paramjit Kaur. I feel, that in the ensuing pages, the reader would find an interesting, attractive and lively description of the yatra to Sri Hemkund Sahib.
Dehradun RAVEL SINGH
May 2003
www.hemkundji.com
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
THE effort after taking a concrete shape of a book, is now in my hands. I frankly admit that for the valuable assistance received from various respected person, completion of this work would not have been possible. I, therefore in all humility express my deepest thanks to all those associated with this work and especially
to:
HIM, who blessed me with inspiration,
Smt. Paramjit Kaur who always infused courage into me and prompted me during manuscript writing,
Charanjit Singh, Baljit Singh, and Ashok Bidala for bringing out different computer typed versions of the manuscript,
Sh. A.S. Barva, HKLVerma and Ashok Anand for checking the proof copies and offering valuable suggestions,
S.Amarjit Singh, President Yatra Committee whose selfless service and long experience, influnced me a lot,
Respected Balia Achal Singh Ji and S.Bhupindra Singh Gandhi who blessed ‘The Book’ with their holy hands.
Ravel Singh
www.hemkundji.com
THE effort after taking a concrete shape of a book, is now in my hands. I frankly admit that for the valuable assistance received from various respected person, completion of this work would not have been possible. I, therefore in all humility express my deepest thanks to all those associated with this work and especially
to:
HIM, who blessed me with inspiration,
Smt. Paramjit Kaur who always infused courage into me and prompted me during manuscript writing,
Charanjit Singh, Baljit Singh, and Ashok Bidala for bringing out different computer typed versions of the manuscript,
Sh. A.S. Barva, HKLVerma and Ashok Anand for checking the proof copies and offering valuable suggestions,
S.Amarjit Singh, President Yatra Committee whose selfless service and long experience, influnced me a lot,
Respected Balia Achal Singh Ji and S.Bhupindra Singh Gandhi who blessed ‘The Book’ with their holy hands.
Ravel Singh
www.hemkundji.com
Detailed Table of Contents
Detailed Table of Contents
1 PREPARATION 7-7
2 DEPARTURE 8-9
3 JOURNEY TO GAUCHER / SONLA 10-14
4 JOURNEY TO JOSHIMATH 15-16
5 AT GOVIND GHAT GURUDWARA 17-19
6 AT BADRINATH TEMPLE 20-21
7 BACK AT GOVIND GHAT GURUDWARA 22-23
8 JOURNEY –GOVIND GHAT TO GOVIND DHAM 24-27
9 ARRIVAL AT GOVIND DHAM GURUDWARA 28-29
10 MORNING AT GOVIND DHAM 30-31
11 JOURNEY –GOVIND DHAM TO SRI. HEMKUND SAHIB 32-35
12 ARRIVAL AT SRI. HEMKUND SAHIB 36-36
13 AT SRI. HEMKUND SAHIB 37-40
14 DEPARTURE FROM SRI. HEMKUND SAHIB 41-42
15 BACK AT GURUDWARA GOVIND SAHIB 43-45
16 GOVIND DHAM TO GOVIND GHAT 46-47
17 ARRIVAL AT GOVIND GHAT –RETURN JOURNEY 48-49
18 GOVIND GHAT TO JOSHIMATH 50-50
19 JOSHIMATH TO DEHRADUN 51-53
20 SEWADARS OF SRI. HEMKUND SAHIB 54-55
21 FOR INFORMATION PLEASE 56-57
22 SNAPS 58-73
www.hemkundji.com
1 PREPARATION 7-7
2 DEPARTURE 8-9
3 JOURNEY TO GAUCHER / SONLA 10-14
4 JOURNEY TO JOSHIMATH 15-16
5 AT GOVIND GHAT GURUDWARA 17-19
6 AT BADRINATH TEMPLE 20-21
7 BACK AT GOVIND GHAT GURUDWARA 22-23
8 JOURNEY –GOVIND GHAT TO GOVIND DHAM 24-27
9 ARRIVAL AT GOVIND DHAM GURUDWARA 28-29
10 MORNING AT GOVIND DHAM 30-31
11 JOURNEY –GOVIND DHAM TO SRI. HEMKUND SAHIB 32-35
12 ARRIVAL AT SRI. HEMKUND SAHIB 36-36
13 AT SRI. HEMKUND SAHIB 37-40
14 DEPARTURE FROM SRI. HEMKUND SAHIB 41-42
15 BACK AT GURUDWARA GOVIND SAHIB 43-45
16 GOVIND DHAM TO GOVIND GHAT 46-47
17 ARRIVAL AT GOVIND GHAT –RETURN JOURNEY 48-49
18 GOVIND GHAT TO JOSHIMATH 50-50
19 JOSHIMATH TO DEHRADUN 51-53
20 SEWADARS OF SRI. HEMKUND SAHIB 54-55
21 FOR INFORMATION PLEASE 56-57
22 SNAPS 58-73
www.hemkundji.com
PREPARATION
One
PREPARATION
It is advisable to make necessary preparation prior to undertaking some work or setting out to achieve some object. It is also worthwhile to gather relevant guidance from persons who have the requisite experience. Keeping this in view, the yatra committee supplied a guidance slip which specified certain items, that each yatri was advised to carry on his person for the yatra e.g. Thali, glass, spoon, torch, knife, woolen socks, sweater, clothes, light bedding, bottle for Amrit etc. Pilgrims, who had already been to Hemkund Sahib, were also consulted in this respect. Some persons advised us to have limited requirements to the bare minimum necessity. But we were afraid still, as to how to balance the quantum of items for normal and emergent use, as emergency contingencies, such as, blockade due to land slide, some mishap, engine failure etc. were not predictable.
However, in the light of the Guidance Slip and the information got from the old yatris, we arranged all the above noted items. Five sets each of new clothes were readied together with two towels. In the bedroll, two small durries, two bed sheets and two blankets were packed. Before leaving for the journey, all the spare clothes were put in the bedroll. Our suitcase also housed various hosiery items e.g. socks, under-wear, vests, sweaters, hankies, raincoats etc. Items such as dry fruits, biscuits, and bottle for Amrit, and necessary medicines, were put in the shoulder bags. For ready availability, one set of utensils was placed in each bag. Two plastic bottles for drinking water, two torches, five candles and a matchbox were also stacked in these bags. Paramjit carried one loaded camera and two spare reels in her purse. Utility items, such as, soap paper, tissue paper and just 50 ml of coconut oil, were also consigned to her custody.
Putting a full stop to the preparation relieved us of the initial tension, as we felt satisfied to the best of our understanding. In fact, all the items comprising the preparation were handled to finality by my competent daughter-in-law Simran. She deftly checked all the clothes down to buttons and stitches and marked combinations befitting the honorable occasion. She also neatly marked all the utensil items and put our short address on the suitcase and the hold all with indelible marker ink. That was to ensure that the items do not get mixed up with those of others and may be identified easily at the Gathri Ghar (Cloak Room)
www.hemkundji.com
PREPARATION
It is advisable to make necessary preparation prior to undertaking some work or setting out to achieve some object. It is also worthwhile to gather relevant guidance from persons who have the requisite experience. Keeping this in view, the yatra committee supplied a guidance slip which specified certain items, that each yatri was advised to carry on his person for the yatra e.g. Thali, glass, spoon, torch, knife, woolen socks, sweater, clothes, light bedding, bottle for Amrit etc. Pilgrims, who had already been to Hemkund Sahib, were also consulted in this respect. Some persons advised us to have limited requirements to the bare minimum necessity. But we were afraid still, as to how to balance the quantum of items for normal and emergent use, as emergency contingencies, such as, blockade due to land slide, some mishap, engine failure etc. were not predictable.
However, in the light of the Guidance Slip and the information got from the old yatris, we arranged all the above noted items. Five sets each of new clothes were readied together with two towels. In the bedroll, two small durries, two bed sheets and two blankets were packed. Before leaving for the journey, all the spare clothes were put in the bedroll. Our suitcase also housed various hosiery items e.g. socks, under-wear, vests, sweaters, hankies, raincoats etc. Items such as dry fruits, biscuits, and bottle for Amrit, and necessary medicines, were put in the shoulder bags. For ready availability, one set of utensils was placed in each bag. Two plastic bottles for drinking water, two torches, five candles and a matchbox were also stacked in these bags. Paramjit carried one loaded camera and two spare reels in her purse. Utility items, such as, soap paper, tissue paper and just 50 ml of coconut oil, were also consigned to her custody.
Putting a full stop to the preparation relieved us of the initial tension, as we felt satisfied to the best of our understanding. In fact, all the items comprising the preparation were handled to finality by my competent daughter-in-law Simran. She deftly checked all the clothes down to buttons and stitches and marked combinations befitting the honorable occasion. She also neatly marked all the utensil items and put our short address on the suitcase and the hold all with indelible marker ink. That was to ensure that the items do not get mixed up with those of others and may be identified easily at the Gathri Ghar (Cloak Room)
www.hemkundji.com
DEPARTURE
Two
DEPARTURE
The scheduled time for departure of the buses from Gurudwara Race Course was 5 AM on 5-7-2002. But a message was conveyed to all the passengers by the committee to bring their luggage for loading on the buses after 7 PM on 4-7-2002. This was necessary to avoid any delay in the departure in the morning.
By 7.30 PM on 4-7-2002, I was present near the buses with my luggage. I found no fellow passenger around. I went inside the Gurudwara to look for any fellow passenger sitting inside. There I found that two persons of our jatha were helping the halwai, who was preparing vegetables, prashad etc. to be carried along the next morning. Meanwhile, passengers continued to arrive one after the other. By 9 PM, a good number of them were in attendance.
Now, the manager of the tour appeared on the scene. He requested the passengers to come close to him. Then he told the gathering that all the passengers have already been allotted seats in seriatim in the seven buses, but identity of number is to be established through a lottery system. He held out seven folded slips, containing separate Registration Nos. of each bus and asked a small child standing nearby to pick up one slip. The child did so and that was marked as bus no - 1. Likewise all the seven buses were marked: The passengers were asked to get their belongings loaded on the particular bus number, which was allotted at the time of booking of the seat.
Ours was Bus no. 1, its registration number UP 06 5256. The exercise of loading was over by 9.30 PM. Some late comers were still trickling in, but I left the place for home for final thinking over and to take maximum possible rest were necessary.
At home, we were quite at ease due to prompt preparation. But there was a strong yearning to start the journey. Meanwhile, we received phone calls from my son Baljit, daughter-in-law Baljinder and daughter Dr. Devinder, mentioning prayers for our happy journey both the ways. We woke up a bit early the next morning. We got ready at the earliest and had tea with some bread. As is customary in every home to hand over some instructions to children at the time of departure, we too did so. Before leaving, we gave love to our small one-year old innocent grand daughter Arshpreet, who was still asleep and lying like a dot on the double bed.
Our son Charanjit accompanied us upto Gurudwara Race Course. We reached there by 5.20 AM. Some persons were still bringing their luggage for loading. This process caused an avoidable delay. The pantry items had almost been loaded. Big utensils meant for cooking en-route at the pre-decided resting places, were being placed in the dicky. Buses with complete loading were being covered with waterproof plastic sheets.
The presence of over two hundred yatris, getting ready to set out on a respectable yatra, was a unique congregation. The moment presented a scene meriting depiction. The buses finely painted in dark blue and off white colour, having the inscription "Garhwal MandaI Vikas Nigam" etc. with glaring rear view mirrors and just cleaned bodies, added to the grandeur of the pilgrims. In front of each bus a Nishan Sahib in deep yellow cloth, was securely tied as a mark of distinction for the yatra.
Children, ladies, youngsters and elders draped themselves in keeping with the occasion and none was found wearing a foppish dress. Shirts, bush shirts, T-shirts, pants, half pants, kurta-pajama and smart-simple dresses were in view. A good number of youngsters had cameras ready on their shoulders. Different colours of turbans, patkas and dupattas looked as a spectrum of shades. At times, boisterous laughter from children was audible; otherwise, small groups were talking in a normal manner. In such a group, a gentleman dressed in yellow T-shirt and half-pant was conspicuous due to broad deep green stripes on the dress. It was learnt that the gentleman regularly under takes pilgrimage to Sri Hemkund Sahib and that he will remain in that dress upto Gobind Ghat.
But on some faces, the yearning to be one of the yatris was discernible. Apart from the yatri buses, a good number of private cars and motorbikes were parked at the spot. Many family members had come to see off their dear ones who were proceeding to Sri Hemkund Sahib. This infused encouragement into the yatris and they themselves felt satisfied and pleased to be physically present at the auspicious occasion.
The buses were now ready to move. The jathedar came and asked the yatris to be present in the Gurudwara for ardas. The bhaiji did ardas for the yatris and prayed to Almighty for success of the yatra. After having parshad, every body got back to his bus.
It was 6.40 A.M. God's graced persons were at their seats. The sky was clear with dots of clouds far away. The morning was cool but breeze was absent. The bus doors were closed after receipt of a bagful of edibles in each bus. After confirming the presence of all the passengers in the respective buses, the drivers switched on their engines and the buses moved one after the other to the accompaniment of the waving little and big hands saying bye-bye. The watch hands were at quarter to 7 AM. There were loud Jaikaras : “Bole So Nihal, Sat Sri Akal”.
www.hemkundji.com
DEPARTURE
The scheduled time for departure of the buses from Gurudwara Race Course was 5 AM on 5-7-2002. But a message was conveyed to all the passengers by the committee to bring their luggage for loading on the buses after 7 PM on 4-7-2002. This was necessary to avoid any delay in the departure in the morning.
By 7.30 PM on 4-7-2002, I was present near the buses with my luggage. I found no fellow passenger around. I went inside the Gurudwara to look for any fellow passenger sitting inside. There I found that two persons of our jatha were helping the halwai, who was preparing vegetables, prashad etc. to be carried along the next morning. Meanwhile, passengers continued to arrive one after the other. By 9 PM, a good number of them were in attendance.
Now, the manager of the tour appeared on the scene. He requested the passengers to come close to him. Then he told the gathering that all the passengers have already been allotted seats in seriatim in the seven buses, but identity of number is to be established through a lottery system. He held out seven folded slips, containing separate Registration Nos. of each bus and asked a small child standing nearby to pick up one slip. The child did so and that was marked as bus no - 1. Likewise all the seven buses were marked: The passengers were asked to get their belongings loaded on the particular bus number, which was allotted at the time of booking of the seat.
Ours was Bus no. 1, its registration number UP 06 5256. The exercise of loading was over by 9.30 PM. Some late comers were still trickling in, but I left the place for home for final thinking over and to take maximum possible rest were necessary.
At home, we were quite at ease due to prompt preparation. But there was a strong yearning to start the journey. Meanwhile, we received phone calls from my son Baljit, daughter-in-law Baljinder and daughter Dr. Devinder, mentioning prayers for our happy journey both the ways. We woke up a bit early the next morning. We got ready at the earliest and had tea with some bread. As is customary in every home to hand over some instructions to children at the time of departure, we too did so. Before leaving, we gave love to our small one-year old innocent grand daughter Arshpreet, who was still asleep and lying like a dot on the double bed.
Our son Charanjit accompanied us upto Gurudwara Race Course. We reached there by 5.20 AM. Some persons were still bringing their luggage for loading. This process caused an avoidable delay. The pantry items had almost been loaded. Big utensils meant for cooking en-route at the pre-decided resting places, were being placed in the dicky. Buses with complete loading were being covered with waterproof plastic sheets.
The presence of over two hundred yatris, getting ready to set out on a respectable yatra, was a unique congregation. The moment presented a scene meriting depiction. The buses finely painted in dark blue and off white colour, having the inscription "Garhwal MandaI Vikas Nigam" etc. with glaring rear view mirrors and just cleaned bodies, added to the grandeur of the pilgrims. In front of each bus a Nishan Sahib in deep yellow cloth, was securely tied as a mark of distinction for the yatra.
Children, ladies, youngsters and elders draped themselves in keeping with the occasion and none was found wearing a foppish dress. Shirts, bush shirts, T-shirts, pants, half pants, kurta-pajama and smart-simple dresses were in view. A good number of youngsters had cameras ready on their shoulders. Different colours of turbans, patkas and dupattas looked as a spectrum of shades. At times, boisterous laughter from children was audible; otherwise, small groups were talking in a normal manner. In such a group, a gentleman dressed in yellow T-shirt and half-pant was conspicuous due to broad deep green stripes on the dress. It was learnt that the gentleman regularly under takes pilgrimage to Sri Hemkund Sahib and that he will remain in that dress upto Gobind Ghat.
But on some faces, the yearning to be one of the yatris was discernible. Apart from the yatri buses, a good number of private cars and motorbikes were parked at the spot. Many family members had come to see off their dear ones who were proceeding to Sri Hemkund Sahib. This infused encouragement into the yatris and they themselves felt satisfied and pleased to be physically present at the auspicious occasion.
The buses were now ready to move. The jathedar came and asked the yatris to be present in the Gurudwara for ardas. The bhaiji did ardas for the yatris and prayed to Almighty for success of the yatra. After having parshad, every body got back to his bus.
It was 6.40 A.M. God's graced persons were at their seats. The sky was clear with dots of clouds far away. The morning was cool but breeze was absent. The bus doors were closed after receipt of a bagful of edibles in each bus. After confirming the presence of all the passengers in the respective buses, the drivers switched on their engines and the buses moved one after the other to the accompaniment of the waving little and big hands saying bye-bye. The watch hands were at quarter to 7 AM. There were loud Jaikaras : “Bole So Nihal, Sat Sri Akal”.
www.hemkundji.com
JOURNEY TO GAUCHER / SONLA
Three
JOURNEY TO GAUCHER / SONLA
The buses picked up speed at the outskirts of Dehradun and soon we were passing through the jungles of Lacchi-wala, where monkeys could be seen on both the sides of the road. Except the noise of the passing vehicles and the voice of birds, the atmosphere was calm. We crossed through Doiwala, over the bridge, passed along the Jolly Grant Air strip and soon were negotiating the turns and bends of the Rani Pokhri forests where a board read: "Beware of Elephants". Another board contained the appeal: "We (Elephants) are your friends, do not harm us".
Within a few minutes, the buses were on the roads of Rishikesh. At 7:55 A.M. we passed in front of Gurudwara Hemkund (Rishikesh),-an imposing building having sprawling lawns and many ‘sarais’. The ascent started from the Sivananda Ashram. We had a view of the Ganga River. It was in spate with muddy yellow brown water. For the first time we were travelling uphill beyond Rishikesh. So, we had the craze to enjoy nature in all its possible details.
Across the Ganges, buildings of various Ashrams, restaurants and shops presented a magnificent view. Ram Jhoola and Laxman Jhoola were now behind us. We were proceeding in the Ganga valley gaining height almost every minute. The river remained in view - sometimes near and sometimes far away. As we pushed on, successive mountain ranges, covered with a natural clothing of forest vegetation, also appeared rising.
By now, we had three servings comprising snacks, kachori, fruit and toffees etc. all inside the speeding bus.
At Kodiyal, we halted for breakfast. The halwai had already reached there. He re-heated vegetables. Every yatri was requested to have his share of the food in his own utensils. Hot tea was also served. The Kirtni Jatha of our group recited Gurbani Kirtan for some time. But in our bus, the presence of S. Bhupinder Singh Gandhi and S. Manjit Singh Duggal made the journey lively throughout, as they contributed greatly by way of dedicated Kirtan and recitation of Gurbani.
Kodiyal was a nice resting place for the tourists, as it had shops, some good space for resting, public conveniences and its location being near the Ganges was quite attractive. We remained there from 9:15 to 10:30 A.M.
At 11:25 AM, Devprayag, the meeting place of the rivers Bhagirathi and Alaknanda came to our view from the high altitude. The courses of both the rivers, as well as, their meeting point, forming a 'Y' and the distinct colour of the waters was visible. Our buses descended down to the river level and crossed the bridge over Bhagirathi to take to the valley of Alaknanda. After a pretty long descent, we started ascending again. Devprayag being situated at 3000 feet above sea level is a famous pilgrimage centre.
Now, we were moving on the road made by cutting sloppy rocks of high mountains. Sometimes the road curved in a bend and the river below appeared quite in a line. Therefore, cautious driving was the key for safety.
The programme for 5-7-2002 was to reach Joshimath Gurudwara and stay there for the night. Our bus, being No.1, normally remained ahead of the others. Since the destination was quite clear, our driver carried on.
We passed through the serpentine bazaar of Srinagar at 12:35 pm. Here, the terrain is comparatively plain and the Alaknanda also flows at plain ground and not through the valley. Many government offices as well as the Garhwal University are located here. It is an ancient yet developed and a famous city of Uttaranchal State.
Mesmerized by the enticing beauty of the woodlands, we got lost in our imagination relating to the further unfolding of the journey. The road passed along thick forests on our right and the left side was quite low in altitude but thickly bushed. The bus reduced its speed and was soon parked on the left side. All of us alighted. Soon it was learnt that this was a break for lunch and the hosting place was village Narkota. Our halwais were already on their job. The village had some houses and some thatched shops on the roadside. Drinking water and other facilities were available there. Some of the down coming motorbikes and vehicles donning mini Nishan Sahib did pause for the refreshing hospitality of this place. As soon as the lunch was ready, the yatris were asked to have their respective share. Hot rice and spiced Rajmah, with a piece of pickle, tasted excellent and every body was all praise for the preparation. By way of sweet dish, one dussehri mango each was served to the yatris. Some children did insist for the packed snacks that were on display in the local shops. Having relished an admirable lunch, a rest in the healthy atmosphere and brief strolling on the spot, we packed off for the next stop.
Passing through Narkota and Gulabarai, we reached Rudarprayag at 3:25 P.M. Winding through this pilgrim centre, we reached Gaucher at 4:10 PM. Here the traffic police informed us that the road was blocked due to a landslide before Nandprayag. He also wanted the driver to park the vehicle in the open space nearby, where a number of other vehicles were already parked. Our driver thought that by the time we reach near the spot of landslide, the road would stand cleared. The driver pressed on forward with this hope.
At 4:30 pm we reached Karanprayag bus stand. The driver obtained more information about the landslide. The extent of damage to road was not known. Still the driver preferred to go ahead. Some other vehicles were also seen moving forward. At 5:10 P.M., we reached the village Langasu.
Here, the driver obtained more information about the landslide. It was learnt from various sources that the road could only be opened for traffic by mid-day tomorrow. On both sides of the landslide, a large number of vehicles were stranded. It was also not easy to return to Gauchar (30 K.M.) as at every safe place on road, vehicles were parked. The problem of passing the night by the roadside and that of arranging drinking water, tea, food etc. stared us in the face. Since it was not advisable to go back, or go too far, the driver parked the bus on the roadside in front of a shop. It was village Sonla. It is situated on the level ground between the road and the river. An auto service shop was at hand. A small restaurant was also in sight. Just 200 yards behind was a sharp turn. Near the turn, there stood a number of shops and a school.
As we were waiting for the arrival of the six buses left behind, it was presumed that the buses had not been allowed to leave Gauchar.
At Sonla, the shopkeeper was contacted for help. The shopkeeper, a lean, soft spoken and well-mannered gentleman, who had lived in Mumbai for a number of years, promised us all possible help.
For preparing tea, a big pan, tea, sugar and milk were supplied by the shopkeeper. Water was already available from the nearby tap. We had L.P.G. cylinder but not the stove. So, an improvised fireplace was made and dry wood branches, stacked just at hand, were used to prepare tea. As we were concentrating on preparing tea, beseeching the Fire God, village folk were curiously observing all our actions. Suddenly, an old woman with a mildly wrinkled face, sneaked in and let loose a volley of verbal shots at us saying "The dry wood you are using, is not a windfall. It is available here because of our labour and sweat". The revered lady silenced us. She was right but we were helpless. Her rage was intenser than the fire that burned under the kettle. As the elderly are considered respect worthy, we mollified her through soft conversation wrapped in respectful terms. After some time her anger cooled off and she showered blessings for our pilgrimage. Then she shared tea with us and returned to her house. The villagers also thinned away leaving us to our fate. Ready tea was supplied to all the yatris together with biscuits. It was a happy experience and the yatris were responding in cooperative spirit.
Getting this relief (after we had some breakfast at Kodiyal) we had some strolling in the nearby area. ‘Cheer’, trees were decorating the mountains. On the high ridges the trees looked like the mein on the hunchback camels. The roaring noise of Alaknanda waters was clearly audible. A small village, on the other side of the river nestled in the midst of the mountains, added more life in the jungles, as electric light of different density was trickling through thick web of trees.
It was decided to arrange rice pulao for dinner. Rice, tomato, onions and requisite condiments were procured from the shopkeeper. He was also nice enough to arrange a gas stove for the time being. The rice pulao had to be prepared in two installments, as the available pan was not so big as to contain all rice for boiling in one go. The pulao was ready before 9 P.M. Everybody enjoyed it, in its own relish.
The shopkeeper had spared a room adjacent to his shop for ladies to rest. Outside, verandah was available for gents. Some persons also rested in the bus. This was the best possible arrangement as, otherwise, no resting place was available in the village.
A nearby house owner had thrown open conveniences for use by the ladies. So, practically, no difficulties were encountered, since the time we stopped at the village.
One by one, all of us retired for rest. The shopkeeper had also closed the shop for night. In the deep dark mountains lights flickered from the small villages signifying human population, amidst the wilderness
It was morning of 6/7, when we woke up at Sonla village over the make shift beds. Every body was getting ready in his own way and as per convenience available. Some were strolling, some brushing teeth, some taking bath and some had already finished all that. Some persons were also seen doing ‘ Paath’ in aloofness. We were all at home in the lap of nature.
As the gas stove was demanded back, tea had to be prepared as early as possible. Again, we procured raw material from the shopkeeper and tea was prepared quite easily. The yatris were requested to have tea and snacks. After the morning tea was over, the gas stove was returned to the gentleman who had obliged us with its use. We were thankful to him for this specific help. The shopkeeper was thus specially thanked, as he arranged the stove for us. All the payments due to him were promptly made. Deep gratitude was expressed to him for sparing one room and the verandah for the yatris. He gave us a glimpse of his past days which he spent in Mumbai together with his father, mother and his own family. He also told us how he got arranged a water tank at the hill above to ensure supply of drinking water to the village and travelling public through taps. He was a very sociable person.
As time passed, we grew optimistic to re-start the journey. But we had no information about the other buses. Now, we felt like having breakfast. But no facilities were easily available. So, to tide over this minor problem, it was decided to arrange ready breakfast from some dhaba. Such a dhaba was located 1 kilometer back on the route. So, some gentleman went there, got parathas and vegetables ready. These parathas were distributed amongst the yatris together with vegetable and pickle. Every body got satisfied for the time being.
Meanwhile, school children of the village in their light blue and white uniform were leaving for their school. The womenfolk were seen going out with sickles etc. towards the jungles for collecting dead wood for their hearths and fodder for their livestock. Men folk too were busy in their own vocations. The shopkeeper was now on active duty in his shop in which he had stocked everything that one may need in daily life. Soft drinks, mineral water and crisp chips packets were also on display to cater to the requirements of the tourists. Stationery items were also available for the students. Even the attractive school bags with different logos were seen in hangers. The shopkeeper was a little busy machine, as his shop was situated at a vintage location.
Waiting was cumbersome. We were waiting for news of clearance of the landslide. We had been missing our companions. We felt devoid of mutual interaction, activities and experience due to their absence. Our programme for the yesternight had gone haywire. Our togetherness at the langar was also out of gear. We had a little leftover material in our bus whereas all the essential stocks were there in other buses. So, reaching straight at Gobind Ghat and not stopping at Joshimath, was the sane option before us. We expected that our remaining buses would make up for Gobind Ghat.
Now, we were both mid-way and at mid-day. Now we were expecting some good news any time. And to our great happiness, we found some vehicles speeding down towards us. Thereafter virtually a stream of vehicles followed. The obstacle of landslide had been removed. We did not want to rush up. We waited to ensure that all the stuck up vehicles had moved out and the road was clear for the normal traffic.
It was 1 p.m. mid day of 6/7. Down coming vehicles comprised of the normal traffic. Also vehicles parked behind at different places were speeding up the hill. Our passengers were back at their seats. The bus was ready to move. The engine was put on. The driver wanted a simple nod- and the nod was: "Bole So Nihal, Sat Sri Akal". The bus moved on leaving behind Sonla, its inhabitants and the brisk shopkeeper who played us the gracious host- a fact that will go deep into our memory and become history.
As was gathered later on, all the six buses when reached Gauchar one after the other, were not allowed to proceed any further. The buses were parked in a spacious ground where a large number of vehicles were already parked. The Jathedar was in a quandary. He dispatched the pantry jeep to contact us. The driver returned after covering a few kilometers as he could not get any information about our whereabouts. The six bus yatris spent the night at Gauchar. On 6/7 they impatiently waited for the down coming vehicles. After 2 p.m. their waiting was over. All the buses began plying. They were hopeful to meet us at some place but that did not happen on July 6th. They left Gauchar without us and we had left Sonla without them.
www.hemkundji.com
JOURNEY TO GAUCHER / SONLA
The buses picked up speed at the outskirts of Dehradun and soon we were passing through the jungles of Lacchi-wala, where monkeys could be seen on both the sides of the road. Except the noise of the passing vehicles and the voice of birds, the atmosphere was calm. We crossed through Doiwala, over the bridge, passed along the Jolly Grant Air strip and soon were negotiating the turns and bends of the Rani Pokhri forests where a board read: "Beware of Elephants". Another board contained the appeal: "We (Elephants) are your friends, do not harm us".
Within a few minutes, the buses were on the roads of Rishikesh. At 7:55 A.M. we passed in front of Gurudwara Hemkund (Rishikesh),-an imposing building having sprawling lawns and many ‘sarais’. The ascent started from the Sivananda Ashram. We had a view of the Ganga River. It was in spate with muddy yellow brown water. For the first time we were travelling uphill beyond Rishikesh. So, we had the craze to enjoy nature in all its possible details.
Across the Ganges, buildings of various Ashrams, restaurants and shops presented a magnificent view. Ram Jhoola and Laxman Jhoola were now behind us. We were proceeding in the Ganga valley gaining height almost every minute. The river remained in view - sometimes near and sometimes far away. As we pushed on, successive mountain ranges, covered with a natural clothing of forest vegetation, also appeared rising.
By now, we had three servings comprising snacks, kachori, fruit and toffees etc. all inside the speeding bus.
At Kodiyal, we halted for breakfast. The halwai had already reached there. He re-heated vegetables. Every yatri was requested to have his share of the food in his own utensils. Hot tea was also served. The Kirtni Jatha of our group recited Gurbani Kirtan for some time. But in our bus, the presence of S. Bhupinder Singh Gandhi and S. Manjit Singh Duggal made the journey lively throughout, as they contributed greatly by way of dedicated Kirtan and recitation of Gurbani.
Kodiyal was a nice resting place for the tourists, as it had shops, some good space for resting, public conveniences and its location being near the Ganges was quite attractive. We remained there from 9:15 to 10:30 A.M.
At 11:25 AM, Devprayag, the meeting place of the rivers Bhagirathi and Alaknanda came to our view from the high altitude. The courses of both the rivers, as well as, their meeting point, forming a 'Y' and the distinct colour of the waters was visible. Our buses descended down to the river level and crossed the bridge over Bhagirathi to take to the valley of Alaknanda. After a pretty long descent, we started ascending again. Devprayag being situated at 3000 feet above sea level is a famous pilgrimage centre.
Now, we were moving on the road made by cutting sloppy rocks of high mountains. Sometimes the road curved in a bend and the river below appeared quite in a line. Therefore, cautious driving was the key for safety.
The programme for 5-7-2002 was to reach Joshimath Gurudwara and stay there for the night. Our bus, being No.1, normally remained ahead of the others. Since the destination was quite clear, our driver carried on.
We passed through the serpentine bazaar of Srinagar at 12:35 pm. Here, the terrain is comparatively plain and the Alaknanda also flows at plain ground and not through the valley. Many government offices as well as the Garhwal University are located here. It is an ancient yet developed and a famous city of Uttaranchal State.
Mesmerized by the enticing beauty of the woodlands, we got lost in our imagination relating to the further unfolding of the journey. The road passed along thick forests on our right and the left side was quite low in altitude but thickly bushed. The bus reduced its speed and was soon parked on the left side. All of us alighted. Soon it was learnt that this was a break for lunch and the hosting place was village Narkota. Our halwais were already on their job. The village had some houses and some thatched shops on the roadside. Drinking water and other facilities were available there. Some of the down coming motorbikes and vehicles donning mini Nishan Sahib did pause for the refreshing hospitality of this place. As soon as the lunch was ready, the yatris were asked to have their respective share. Hot rice and spiced Rajmah, with a piece of pickle, tasted excellent and every body was all praise for the preparation. By way of sweet dish, one dussehri mango each was served to the yatris. Some children did insist for the packed snacks that were on display in the local shops. Having relished an admirable lunch, a rest in the healthy atmosphere and brief strolling on the spot, we packed off for the next stop.
Passing through Narkota and Gulabarai, we reached Rudarprayag at 3:25 P.M. Winding through this pilgrim centre, we reached Gaucher at 4:10 PM. Here the traffic police informed us that the road was blocked due to a landslide before Nandprayag. He also wanted the driver to park the vehicle in the open space nearby, where a number of other vehicles were already parked. Our driver thought that by the time we reach near the spot of landslide, the road would stand cleared. The driver pressed on forward with this hope.
At 4:30 pm we reached Karanprayag bus stand. The driver obtained more information about the landslide. The extent of damage to road was not known. Still the driver preferred to go ahead. Some other vehicles were also seen moving forward. At 5:10 P.M., we reached the village Langasu.
Here, the driver obtained more information about the landslide. It was learnt from various sources that the road could only be opened for traffic by mid-day tomorrow. On both sides of the landslide, a large number of vehicles were stranded. It was also not easy to return to Gauchar (30 K.M.) as at every safe place on road, vehicles were parked. The problem of passing the night by the roadside and that of arranging drinking water, tea, food etc. stared us in the face. Since it was not advisable to go back, or go too far, the driver parked the bus on the roadside in front of a shop. It was village Sonla. It is situated on the level ground between the road and the river. An auto service shop was at hand. A small restaurant was also in sight. Just 200 yards behind was a sharp turn. Near the turn, there stood a number of shops and a school.
As we were waiting for the arrival of the six buses left behind, it was presumed that the buses had not been allowed to leave Gauchar.
At Sonla, the shopkeeper was contacted for help. The shopkeeper, a lean, soft spoken and well-mannered gentleman, who had lived in Mumbai for a number of years, promised us all possible help.
For preparing tea, a big pan, tea, sugar and milk were supplied by the shopkeeper. Water was already available from the nearby tap. We had L.P.G. cylinder but not the stove. So, an improvised fireplace was made and dry wood branches, stacked just at hand, were used to prepare tea. As we were concentrating on preparing tea, beseeching the Fire God, village folk were curiously observing all our actions. Suddenly, an old woman with a mildly wrinkled face, sneaked in and let loose a volley of verbal shots at us saying "The dry wood you are using, is not a windfall. It is available here because of our labour and sweat". The revered lady silenced us. She was right but we were helpless. Her rage was intenser than the fire that burned under the kettle. As the elderly are considered respect worthy, we mollified her through soft conversation wrapped in respectful terms. After some time her anger cooled off and she showered blessings for our pilgrimage. Then she shared tea with us and returned to her house. The villagers also thinned away leaving us to our fate. Ready tea was supplied to all the yatris together with biscuits. It was a happy experience and the yatris were responding in cooperative spirit.
Getting this relief (after we had some breakfast at Kodiyal) we had some strolling in the nearby area. ‘Cheer’, trees were decorating the mountains. On the high ridges the trees looked like the mein on the hunchback camels. The roaring noise of Alaknanda waters was clearly audible. A small village, on the other side of the river nestled in the midst of the mountains, added more life in the jungles, as electric light of different density was trickling through thick web of trees.
It was decided to arrange rice pulao for dinner. Rice, tomato, onions and requisite condiments were procured from the shopkeeper. He was also nice enough to arrange a gas stove for the time being. The rice pulao had to be prepared in two installments, as the available pan was not so big as to contain all rice for boiling in one go. The pulao was ready before 9 P.M. Everybody enjoyed it, in its own relish.
The shopkeeper had spared a room adjacent to his shop for ladies to rest. Outside, verandah was available for gents. Some persons also rested in the bus. This was the best possible arrangement as, otherwise, no resting place was available in the village.
A nearby house owner had thrown open conveniences for use by the ladies. So, practically, no difficulties were encountered, since the time we stopped at the village.
One by one, all of us retired for rest. The shopkeeper had also closed the shop for night. In the deep dark mountains lights flickered from the small villages signifying human population, amidst the wilderness
It was morning of 6/7, when we woke up at Sonla village over the make shift beds. Every body was getting ready in his own way and as per convenience available. Some were strolling, some brushing teeth, some taking bath and some had already finished all that. Some persons were also seen doing ‘ Paath’ in aloofness. We were all at home in the lap of nature.
As the gas stove was demanded back, tea had to be prepared as early as possible. Again, we procured raw material from the shopkeeper and tea was prepared quite easily. The yatris were requested to have tea and snacks. After the morning tea was over, the gas stove was returned to the gentleman who had obliged us with its use. We were thankful to him for this specific help. The shopkeeper was thus specially thanked, as he arranged the stove for us. All the payments due to him were promptly made. Deep gratitude was expressed to him for sparing one room and the verandah for the yatris. He gave us a glimpse of his past days which he spent in Mumbai together with his father, mother and his own family. He also told us how he got arranged a water tank at the hill above to ensure supply of drinking water to the village and travelling public through taps. He was a very sociable person.
As time passed, we grew optimistic to re-start the journey. But we had no information about the other buses. Now, we felt like having breakfast. But no facilities were easily available. So, to tide over this minor problem, it was decided to arrange ready breakfast from some dhaba. Such a dhaba was located 1 kilometer back on the route. So, some gentleman went there, got parathas and vegetables ready. These parathas were distributed amongst the yatris together with vegetable and pickle. Every body got satisfied for the time being.
Meanwhile, school children of the village in their light blue and white uniform were leaving for their school. The womenfolk were seen going out with sickles etc. towards the jungles for collecting dead wood for their hearths and fodder for their livestock. Men folk too were busy in their own vocations. The shopkeeper was now on active duty in his shop in which he had stocked everything that one may need in daily life. Soft drinks, mineral water and crisp chips packets were also on display to cater to the requirements of the tourists. Stationery items were also available for the students. Even the attractive school bags with different logos were seen in hangers. The shopkeeper was a little busy machine, as his shop was situated at a vintage location.
Waiting was cumbersome. We were waiting for news of clearance of the landslide. We had been missing our companions. We felt devoid of mutual interaction, activities and experience due to their absence. Our programme for the yesternight had gone haywire. Our togetherness at the langar was also out of gear. We had a little leftover material in our bus whereas all the essential stocks were there in other buses. So, reaching straight at Gobind Ghat and not stopping at Joshimath, was the sane option before us. We expected that our remaining buses would make up for Gobind Ghat.
Now, we were both mid-way and at mid-day. Now we were expecting some good news any time. And to our great happiness, we found some vehicles speeding down towards us. Thereafter virtually a stream of vehicles followed. The obstacle of landslide had been removed. We did not want to rush up. We waited to ensure that all the stuck up vehicles had moved out and the road was clear for the normal traffic.
It was 1 p.m. mid day of 6/7. Down coming vehicles comprised of the normal traffic. Also vehicles parked behind at different places were speeding up the hill. Our passengers were back at their seats. The bus was ready to move. The engine was put on. The driver wanted a simple nod- and the nod was: "Bole So Nihal, Sat Sri Akal". The bus moved on leaving behind Sonla, its inhabitants and the brisk shopkeeper who played us the gracious host- a fact that will go deep into our memory and become history.
As was gathered later on, all the six buses when reached Gauchar one after the other, were not allowed to proceed any further. The buses were parked in a spacious ground where a large number of vehicles were already parked. The Jathedar was in a quandary. He dispatched the pantry jeep to contact us. The driver returned after covering a few kilometers as he could not get any information about our whereabouts. The six bus yatris spent the night at Gauchar. On 6/7 they impatiently waited for the down coming vehicles. After 2 p.m. their waiting was over. All the buses began plying. They were hopeful to meet us at some place but that did not happen on July 6th. They left Gauchar without us and we had left Sonla without them.
www.hemkundji.com
JOURNEY TO JOSHIMATH / GOVIND GHAT
Four
JOURNEY TO JOSHIMATH / GOVIND GHAT
The six buses carried on with their journey and passed through Joshimath. They were again held up before the gate prior to Vishnu Prayag, because there was already a very long line of vehicles waiting to cross the gate after the green signal. After Joshimath, only one-way traffic is allowed due to risky mountainous roads. All of our six buses returned to Joshimath Gurudwara for the night stay. In the morning of 7th July, they took to the road and bypassing Gobind Ghat, went straight to Badrinath temple.
On the other hand, the distance between Sonla and us increased and we passed through Chamoli at 1:40 p.m., through Bhantala at 1:50 p.m., through Virahi at 2 p.m. and reached Pipal Koti at 2:15 p.m. At the out-skirts of Pipal Koti, a new Gurudwara was taking shape for the service of yatris. At Pipal Koti bazaar, a P.C.O. was available. But its booth was already full of callers. After fifteen minutes, the bus moved on.
Within two hours, we were winding through the roads of Joshimath. It is a nicely developed city situated on a high inverted' V' shape mountain, at an altitude of 6105 ft. The Alaknanda flows roughly on its two sides. The snow skiing fields of Auli were also located nearby. We passed by the Gurudwara. There were a number of civil and defense establishments situated close by. As we were winding downwards on the other side of the mountain, we found a large expanse of workshops, storehouses and offices of the Jaiprakash Industries who were engaged in the construction of a dam over the Alaknanda for building a power house there. The construction sites as well the trucks on job at different points, were visible from the height. Soon we crossed the bridge over the Alaknanda and carried on the journey till we reached the second bridge. Here, we were stopped at the so-called 'Gate' to wait till the road ahead was clear of the down coming traffic.
It was 4:45 p.m., when we parked the bus. The yatris alighted and began roaming about. This spot was actually the ‘Vishnu Prayag’. The mountains around us were quite high. Towards Joshimath side, the long line of waiting vehicles was visible up to the Jaiprakash Industries complex. Near the bridge, there was a thatched hut tea shop. Near-by was an improvised wooden room, wherein rice was being boiled by a labourer. Some labourers were resting and some taking bath at the tap. On the riverbank was located a small temple. We were dazed to see a deer grazing a-top the high mountain and down the cliff flowed the tumultuous waters of the Alaknanda. The weary labourers were returning with their axes and shovels from the up-stream work sites. It was learnt that the work sites comprised the road widening and the dam-related projects where dynamite was frequently used.
The sun had set. It was becoming hazy. So everybody wanted that the journey be resumed at the earliest.
By this time we had passed by the famous ‘PANCH PRAYAG’ which according to the Hindu mythology were considered to be sacred as bathing therein was believed to be just washing off one’s sins.
The ‘PANCH PRAYAG’ crossed, were popularly known as:-
1. DEVPRAYAG The confluence of Bhagirathi and Alaknanda rivers.
2. RUDRAPRAYAG The confluence of Alaknanda and Mandakini rivers.
3. KARNAPRAYAG The confluence of Pindari and Alaknanda rivers.
4. NANDPRAYAG The confluence of Alaknanda and Nanda Kini rivers.
5. VISHNUPRAYAG The confluence of VishnuGanga and DhauliGanga rivers.
After all, the guard on duty past the ‘Vishnuprayag’ allowed the vehicles to move forward. It was 7:10 p.m. The River Alaknanda was roaring on our left and the high mountains stood gracefully on our right. The position got reversed when after a few kilometers we passed over a bridge spanning the said river. We continued on our journey steadily and reached the bus stand of Gobind Ghat at 7:45 P.M.
It was a matter of great pleasure and satisfaction to have covered the major portion of our journey. All the passengers got down from the bus. The conductor handed down the articles from the roof of the bus. The porters thronged about us. We paid Rs. 20/- per porter although they were initially demanding higher rates. In their pithoos they packed as many bags etc., as they could carry.
The bus stand appeared to have been newly expanded by blasting rocks. It was learnt that a large number of vehicles arrived at this bus stand daily during the yatra season carrying passengers who intend to visit Badrinath Temple and Sri Hemkund Sahib. Sufficient safe parking space was available for tourist buses, cars, motorcycles etc.
www.hemkundji.com
JOURNEY TO JOSHIMATH / GOVIND GHAT
The six buses carried on with their journey and passed through Joshimath. They were again held up before the gate prior to Vishnu Prayag, because there was already a very long line of vehicles waiting to cross the gate after the green signal. After Joshimath, only one-way traffic is allowed due to risky mountainous roads. All of our six buses returned to Joshimath Gurudwara for the night stay. In the morning of 7th July, they took to the road and bypassing Gobind Ghat, went straight to Badrinath temple.
On the other hand, the distance between Sonla and us increased and we passed through Chamoli at 1:40 p.m., through Bhantala at 1:50 p.m., through Virahi at 2 p.m. and reached Pipal Koti at 2:15 p.m. At the out-skirts of Pipal Koti, a new Gurudwara was taking shape for the service of yatris. At Pipal Koti bazaar, a P.C.O. was available. But its booth was already full of callers. After fifteen minutes, the bus moved on.
Within two hours, we were winding through the roads of Joshimath. It is a nicely developed city situated on a high inverted' V' shape mountain, at an altitude of 6105 ft. The Alaknanda flows roughly on its two sides. The snow skiing fields of Auli were also located nearby. We passed by the Gurudwara. There were a number of civil and defense establishments situated close by. As we were winding downwards on the other side of the mountain, we found a large expanse of workshops, storehouses and offices of the Jaiprakash Industries who were engaged in the construction of a dam over the Alaknanda for building a power house there. The construction sites as well the trucks on job at different points, were visible from the height. Soon we crossed the bridge over the Alaknanda and carried on the journey till we reached the second bridge. Here, we were stopped at the so-called 'Gate' to wait till the road ahead was clear of the down coming traffic.
It was 4:45 p.m., when we parked the bus. The yatris alighted and began roaming about. This spot was actually the ‘Vishnu Prayag’. The mountains around us were quite high. Towards Joshimath side, the long line of waiting vehicles was visible up to the Jaiprakash Industries complex. Near the bridge, there was a thatched hut tea shop. Near-by was an improvised wooden room, wherein rice was being boiled by a labourer. Some labourers were resting and some taking bath at the tap. On the riverbank was located a small temple. We were dazed to see a deer grazing a-top the high mountain and down the cliff flowed the tumultuous waters of the Alaknanda. The weary labourers were returning with their axes and shovels from the up-stream work sites. It was learnt that the work sites comprised the road widening and the dam-related projects where dynamite was frequently used.
The sun had set. It was becoming hazy. So everybody wanted that the journey be resumed at the earliest.
By this time we had passed by the famous ‘PANCH PRAYAG’ which according to the Hindu mythology were considered to be sacred as bathing therein was believed to be just washing off one’s sins.
The ‘PANCH PRAYAG’ crossed, were popularly known as:-
1. DEVPRAYAG The confluence of Bhagirathi and Alaknanda rivers.
2. RUDRAPRAYAG The confluence of Alaknanda and Mandakini rivers.
3. KARNAPRAYAG The confluence of Pindari and Alaknanda rivers.
4. NANDPRAYAG The confluence of Alaknanda and Nanda Kini rivers.
5. VISHNUPRAYAG The confluence of VishnuGanga and DhauliGanga rivers.
After all, the guard on duty past the ‘Vishnuprayag’ allowed the vehicles to move forward. It was 7:10 p.m. The River Alaknanda was roaring on our left and the high mountains stood gracefully on our right. The position got reversed when after a few kilometers we passed over a bridge spanning the said river. We continued on our journey steadily and reached the bus stand of Gobind Ghat at 7:45 P.M.
It was a matter of great pleasure and satisfaction to have covered the major portion of our journey. All the passengers got down from the bus. The conductor handed down the articles from the roof of the bus. The porters thronged about us. We paid Rs. 20/- per porter although they were initially demanding higher rates. In their pithoos they packed as many bags etc., as they could carry.
The bus stand appeared to have been newly expanded by blasting rocks. It was learnt that a large number of vehicles arrived at this bus stand daily during the yatra season carrying passengers who intend to visit Badrinath Temple and Sri Hemkund Sahib. Sufficient safe parking space was available for tourist buses, cars, motorcycles etc.
www.hemkundji.com
AT GOVIND GHAT GURUDWARA
Five
AT GOVIND GHAT GURUDWARA
A Cater-pillar, a road roller and a stone crusher were still parked at the site. On a roadside board, were noted the 'gate' timings for the information of in-coming and out-going vehicles. Policemen were on duty to regulate and control traffic. From this spot one road branches out for Badrinath temple and the other leads to the Gobind Ghat Gurudwara and beyond that goes to Gobind Dham, Hemkund Sahib etc.
Together with porters, we proceeded to-wards the Gurudwara- situated at an altitude of 5720 ft. above sea level. On our right, down below, was visible the wonderful churning of the gushing waters of the Alaknanda and the Himganga. The way was almost a continuous descent up-to the Gurudwara. We walked through the narrow bazaar profusely decorated for attracting the customers. Hotels built on the shops were also in view for the public at large. We may have travelled three-fourth of a KM. when we were inside the Gurudwara complex. Everything was new and appeared strange for the first timers.
There were a large number of halls available for the yatris. Mostly the halls were booked quite in advance of the journey, so as to avoid inconvenience to the yatris. The junior jathedar travelling with us went inside the Gurudwara to inquire about the particular hall booked for us. By good luck it was the same hall in front of which we were standing. The porters unloaded their pithoos in the hall and left having got their charges. The yatris occupied the space in the hall.
We rolled out our beds and put other things under the pillow or in the suitcase. Meanwhile, we also got blankets arranged from the storehouse. The blankets made the beds warm and cozy.
To satiate our curiosity, we left the hall to visit the huge Gurudwara complex. We could see the yatris walking, sitting or relaxing all over. We went to the Darbar Hall to pay obeisance and participate in ‘Ardas’. We minutely observed the Darbar Sahib room, got ‘parshad’ and came down the staircase. Thereafter, like other yatris, we also went to the langar hall, where langar and tea were being served. We also had both these items. Then, we moved towards the river Alaknanda and had its frightening glimpse at night. It flows in the backyard of the Gurudwara over a rocky course. We got information about the location of the public conveniences. The store room and the "gathri ghar" were just near our hall. Near the store room we saw a drum full of walking sticks which were left by the yatris returning from Hemkund Sahib. We picked up two for use during further journey. We placed the chosen sticks in our room. We were surprised to see that most of our companions had already collected sticks from that drum, understanding that no sticks may be available like that by morning. Then we left the hall to visit the small bazaar a bit closely. We passed through it slowly to see if anything was worth purchasing. No specialty was discernible as everything on display could be purchased at Rishikesh at cheaper rates. There were halwai shops too. We had two medium glassfuls of milk at rupees 20 per glass. The rate was fourfold than that at Dehradun. Pakoras and parathas were also available on order. The halwai shops were full of customers. There was a pretty big rush of yatris, as the ones, who were stranded due to the landslide, were also joined by fresh ones. After a short sojourn in the area, we returned to our room.
Slowly the talking ceased, as everyone preferred to take rest and sleep. The morning was expected to be full of activity. So, maximum rest was advisable. The room light was put off to ensure complete silence and sleep.
One by one, our companions woke up early in the morning. Some had even got back into the bed after finishing bathing etc by 5 a.m. We too were ready by 6 a.m. The tap water was very cold. The bath taps for gents were still in the open space. Hard water did not wash off soap from bodies easily. All facilities including public conveniences and bathing/drinking water taps were quite adequate for the public.
Having got ready, we went to the sanctum sanctorum to pay our respects to Holy Granth Sahib. Thereafter, we marched towards the langar hall. We had tea, chapaties and dal there. On the way back, we saw two counters. At one counter, money was received against receipts for the supply of parshad to the yatris. At the second counter, parshad was handed out against the receipts issued by the first counter. For convenience of the yatris, parshad is handed over centrally at Gurudwara Gobind Ghat, even against the receipts issued at Gurudwara Gobind Dham or Hemkund Sahib.
Paramjit suggested that we should try a phone call for Dehradun. But we were told that no P.C.O. facility existed at the place. Likewise no electric power station was in service there. That is why, continuously a heavy-duty generator was working. Three big electric generators were seen fixed in a room near the river bank. It was a matter of great pleasure to see that one of the generators was donated by the sangat of Gurudwara Machhi Bazar, Dehradun.
It was the morning of 7th July 2002. The time was approaching 8 a.m. We were waiting for the arrival of our co-yatris. They were to chalk out further programmes, as one day had already been lost in transit. We had deposited the extra luggage in the' gathri' house, as a probability could be to proceed further towards Gobind Dham. There was an air of suspense around us as to what next! We were a bit apprehensive about the visit to Badrinath temple. But, there was also a simmering hope that the yatra period could be extended by a day to set right the programme. We were busy in spinning our own web.
It was a little over 8 a.m. To our surprise a sevadar travelling in one of the other buses banged inside the hall and asked everybody to get ready for onward journey to Badrinath. All the other buses had bypassed Gobind Ghat and continued plying for Badrinath. It took just an hour to get collected and clear the hall, as some persons were not available for quite some time. However, all of us were inside the bus by 9:05 a.m. Finding everything O.K. the driver started the bus at 10 past 9 a.m. for onward journey to Badrinath temple.
The air of uncertainty had vanished. The bus reached Pandukeshwar at about 9: 16 a.m., where it was stopped to wait for the fixed time as per one-way traffic timings applicable at the "gates". This place had a few houses and a few shops comprising tea shops, general merchandise and shops of light woollens. The travellers do add sustenance to the pockets of these shopkeepers.
We left Pandukeshwar at 10:30 a.m. and passed by the side of the parked vehicles, which had returned from upstream. At 10:55 a.m. we crossed Hanuman Chatty. On our left, parts of glaciers were visible. At some places lower tips of the glaciers were seen touching the Alaknanda. At a place, the river water was flowing under the snow. It was a wonderful scene of a snow bridge with the water gushing below it.
www.hemkundji.com
AT GOVIND GHAT GURUDWARA
A Cater-pillar, a road roller and a stone crusher were still parked at the site. On a roadside board, were noted the 'gate' timings for the information of in-coming and out-going vehicles. Policemen were on duty to regulate and control traffic. From this spot one road branches out for Badrinath temple and the other leads to the Gobind Ghat Gurudwara and beyond that goes to Gobind Dham, Hemkund Sahib etc.
Together with porters, we proceeded to-wards the Gurudwara- situated at an altitude of 5720 ft. above sea level. On our right, down below, was visible the wonderful churning of the gushing waters of the Alaknanda and the Himganga. The way was almost a continuous descent up-to the Gurudwara. We walked through the narrow bazaar profusely decorated for attracting the customers. Hotels built on the shops were also in view for the public at large. We may have travelled three-fourth of a KM. when we were inside the Gurudwara complex. Everything was new and appeared strange for the first timers.
There were a large number of halls available for the yatris. Mostly the halls were booked quite in advance of the journey, so as to avoid inconvenience to the yatris. The junior jathedar travelling with us went inside the Gurudwara to inquire about the particular hall booked for us. By good luck it was the same hall in front of which we were standing. The porters unloaded their pithoos in the hall and left having got their charges. The yatris occupied the space in the hall.
We rolled out our beds and put other things under the pillow or in the suitcase. Meanwhile, we also got blankets arranged from the storehouse. The blankets made the beds warm and cozy.
To satiate our curiosity, we left the hall to visit the huge Gurudwara complex. We could see the yatris walking, sitting or relaxing all over. We went to the Darbar Hall to pay obeisance and participate in ‘Ardas’. We minutely observed the Darbar Sahib room, got ‘parshad’ and came down the staircase. Thereafter, like other yatris, we also went to the langar hall, where langar and tea were being served. We also had both these items. Then, we moved towards the river Alaknanda and had its frightening glimpse at night. It flows in the backyard of the Gurudwara over a rocky course. We got information about the location of the public conveniences. The store room and the "gathri ghar" were just near our hall. Near the store room we saw a drum full of walking sticks which were left by the yatris returning from Hemkund Sahib. We picked up two for use during further journey. We placed the chosen sticks in our room. We were surprised to see that most of our companions had already collected sticks from that drum, understanding that no sticks may be available like that by morning. Then we left the hall to visit the small bazaar a bit closely. We passed through it slowly to see if anything was worth purchasing. No specialty was discernible as everything on display could be purchased at Rishikesh at cheaper rates. There were halwai shops too. We had two medium glassfuls of milk at rupees 20 per glass. The rate was fourfold than that at Dehradun. Pakoras and parathas were also available on order. The halwai shops were full of customers. There was a pretty big rush of yatris, as the ones, who were stranded due to the landslide, were also joined by fresh ones. After a short sojourn in the area, we returned to our room.
Slowly the talking ceased, as everyone preferred to take rest and sleep. The morning was expected to be full of activity. So, maximum rest was advisable. The room light was put off to ensure complete silence and sleep.
One by one, our companions woke up early in the morning. Some had even got back into the bed after finishing bathing etc by 5 a.m. We too were ready by 6 a.m. The tap water was very cold. The bath taps for gents were still in the open space. Hard water did not wash off soap from bodies easily. All facilities including public conveniences and bathing/drinking water taps were quite adequate for the public.
Having got ready, we went to the sanctum sanctorum to pay our respects to Holy Granth Sahib. Thereafter, we marched towards the langar hall. We had tea, chapaties and dal there. On the way back, we saw two counters. At one counter, money was received against receipts for the supply of parshad to the yatris. At the second counter, parshad was handed out against the receipts issued by the first counter. For convenience of the yatris, parshad is handed over centrally at Gurudwara Gobind Ghat, even against the receipts issued at Gurudwara Gobind Dham or Hemkund Sahib.
Paramjit suggested that we should try a phone call for Dehradun. But we were told that no P.C.O. facility existed at the place. Likewise no electric power station was in service there. That is why, continuously a heavy-duty generator was working. Three big electric generators were seen fixed in a room near the river bank. It was a matter of great pleasure to see that one of the generators was donated by the sangat of Gurudwara Machhi Bazar, Dehradun.
It was the morning of 7th July 2002. The time was approaching 8 a.m. We were waiting for the arrival of our co-yatris. They were to chalk out further programmes, as one day had already been lost in transit. We had deposited the extra luggage in the' gathri' house, as a probability could be to proceed further towards Gobind Dham. There was an air of suspense around us as to what next! We were a bit apprehensive about the visit to Badrinath temple. But, there was also a simmering hope that the yatra period could be extended by a day to set right the programme. We were busy in spinning our own web.
It was a little over 8 a.m. To our surprise a sevadar travelling in one of the other buses banged inside the hall and asked everybody to get ready for onward journey to Badrinath. All the other buses had bypassed Gobind Ghat and continued plying for Badrinath. It took just an hour to get collected and clear the hall, as some persons were not available for quite some time. However, all of us were inside the bus by 9:05 a.m. Finding everything O.K. the driver started the bus at 10 past 9 a.m. for onward journey to Badrinath temple.
The air of uncertainty had vanished. The bus reached Pandukeshwar at about 9: 16 a.m., where it was stopped to wait for the fixed time as per one-way traffic timings applicable at the "gates". This place had a few houses and a few shops comprising tea shops, general merchandise and shops of light woollens. The travellers do add sustenance to the pockets of these shopkeepers.
We left Pandukeshwar at 10:30 a.m. and passed by the side of the parked vehicles, which had returned from upstream. At 10:55 a.m. we crossed Hanuman Chatty. On our left, parts of glaciers were visible. At some places lower tips of the glaciers were seen touching the Alaknanda. At a place, the river water was flowing under the snow. It was a wonderful scene of a snow bridge with the water gushing below it.
www.hemkundji.com
AT BADRINATH TEMPLE
Six
AT BADRINATH TEMPLE
Before the ascent for Badrinath started, on the right hand side mountain, work to channelise the waters of Alaknanda were seen to have commenced. On the right side also, a water channel was seen. There, on a large platform, heavy equipment was seen lying for fixing. These works appeared to be the part of a large project being set up to generate electricity. Our bus continued to move up hill. At last, we reached the top. At the top there was sufficient plain ground. There were buildings available for yatris. There was a bus stand. There were P.C.O.’s available. In a dharmashala, sermons were going on. The bus was parked in the compound of the dharmashala where all our buses and that of others were standing. We got down from the bus. It was 11: 25 a.m. and we were standing on the ground at 3411 mt. above sea level. Our companions were very happy to see us.
After that, we proceeded towards the Badrinath temple. On the way, we tried to call up Dehradun from a P.C.O., but in vain. We moved on. After crossing the mini bazaar we were just at the banks of the river Alaknanda. We crossed the bridge and the temple was visible at some height. The photograph hitherto seen on paper was now present before us in the form of an actual temple.
We purchased 'parshad' placed in the pan, for Rs. 21/-, consigned shoes to the care of the shopkeeper and went upstairs to offer parshad and prayers before the Deity. There was great rush. Movement inside the temple was very slow. The yatris carried parshad platters on their heads. Time for 'bhog' of Deity was near. The door for incoming yatris could be closed any time. Thank God, the entrance door was shut after we had entered the temple. All the devotees, standing jam packed were to offer prayers and parshad before the Deity through a single line. The pujari handled the parshad platter with a prayer to the Lord.
We stood for a while, with folded hands, before the Lord Badrinath, the incarnation of Lord Vishnu. The existence of the temple is also linked to the visit of Adi Shankaracharya. The pujari after performing the small ritual, exchanged some parshad and returned the platter. Lord Badrinath was honoured with embellishments and offerings from the devotees. Low intensity dhoop was lit on at various points in the inner temple.
Having stood at the feet of Lord Badrinath and having got His blessings, we got out of the temple with our platter of parshad. Outside, near the temple wall, another pujari was selling tulsi water priced at Rs. 10/- per small phial. Paramjit purchased one. The structure and look of the temple revealed that it was a very old temple. We stepped down the temple and went to the parshad vendor, returned his platter and put the parshad in a plastic bag. We then proceeded towards the hot water spring just at the foot of the temple. This kund of hot water actually had hot water spring, which was at a very high temperature. For bathing purposes a small tank was there, where several persons were either taking bath or sitting on its banks with their legs submerged in water. For women folk, a separate facility existed. It was a wonder of nature that by the side of the glacier fed river, there also smiled a hot water spring. After a brief stopover and having a look at the nature around us, we crossed the river over the bridge. A few snapshots of the temple were taken from the bridge, as cameras were not allowed inside the temple.
Behind the temple, the mountain appeared very rugged. Even around, the peaks were not so high. The mountains were also some distance off the river. It was a snow prone area. Here all businesses and the temple were closed by the end of September to reopen in the June of next year.
We waded back through the narrow bazaar. Some purchases were made as a token of memory of the holy visit. The P.C.O. booth was again knocked at but with no success. We reached the place where our buses were parked. The sermons were still going on, in the dharamshala. People who had been resting in the rooms of the dharamshala, were now seen roaming about in verandas. A good number of saffron clad mahatmas were seen at the spot. It was a test of perseverance and strong devotion that some mahatmas had come to Badrinath on foot all the way from their Ashrams. It makes a world of difference, if the journey to Badrinath is undertaken entirely on foot or entirely on a vehicle, which stops just near the temple.
It was lunch break. Khichri was being distributed. We got paper plates and had our share. The langar place was the veranda of the dharamshala. Having finished lunch, the yatris were asked to occupy their seats. All those standing outside the buses got in. The cooking hardware had been re-loaded in the buses. The buses were ready to move.
It was exactly 2 p.m., when we started our return journey from Badrinath temple. The buildings around, the kund and the adjoining mountains slipped into memory as we continued with the descent.
Now, all the seven buses were moving within short distance of each other, so as to maintain visual liaison. We passed along the Hydel works that were in sight from the height. By now the valley had become narrow. The road and the river ran almost parallel to each other. Nothing, except the sound of the vehicles and that of the speeding river water, was audible.
The vehicles stopped one after the other. We had reached back Pandukeshwar. All vehicles had to wait for the next 'gate' timing. After waiting for half an hour, the vehicles moved at 3:30 p.m. Within three minutes, we reached the Bus stop, Gobind Ghat, back which we had left in the morning at 9:10.
www.hemkundji.com
AT BADRINATH TEMPLE
Before the ascent for Badrinath started, on the right hand side mountain, work to channelise the waters of Alaknanda were seen to have commenced. On the right side also, a water channel was seen. There, on a large platform, heavy equipment was seen lying for fixing. These works appeared to be the part of a large project being set up to generate electricity. Our bus continued to move up hill. At last, we reached the top. At the top there was sufficient plain ground. There were buildings available for yatris. There was a bus stand. There were P.C.O.’s available. In a dharmashala, sermons were going on. The bus was parked in the compound of the dharmashala where all our buses and that of others were standing. We got down from the bus. It was 11: 25 a.m. and we were standing on the ground at 3411 mt. above sea level. Our companions were very happy to see us.
After that, we proceeded towards the Badrinath temple. On the way, we tried to call up Dehradun from a P.C.O., but in vain. We moved on. After crossing the mini bazaar we were just at the banks of the river Alaknanda. We crossed the bridge and the temple was visible at some height. The photograph hitherto seen on paper was now present before us in the form of an actual temple.
We purchased 'parshad' placed in the pan, for Rs. 21/-, consigned shoes to the care of the shopkeeper and went upstairs to offer parshad and prayers before the Deity. There was great rush. Movement inside the temple was very slow. The yatris carried parshad platters on their heads. Time for 'bhog' of Deity was near. The door for incoming yatris could be closed any time. Thank God, the entrance door was shut after we had entered the temple. All the devotees, standing jam packed were to offer prayers and parshad before the Deity through a single line. The pujari handled the parshad platter with a prayer to the Lord.
We stood for a while, with folded hands, before the Lord Badrinath, the incarnation of Lord Vishnu. The existence of the temple is also linked to the visit of Adi Shankaracharya. The pujari after performing the small ritual, exchanged some parshad and returned the platter. Lord Badrinath was honoured with embellishments and offerings from the devotees. Low intensity dhoop was lit on at various points in the inner temple.
Having stood at the feet of Lord Badrinath and having got His blessings, we got out of the temple with our platter of parshad. Outside, near the temple wall, another pujari was selling tulsi water priced at Rs. 10/- per small phial. Paramjit purchased one. The structure and look of the temple revealed that it was a very old temple. We stepped down the temple and went to the parshad vendor, returned his platter and put the parshad in a plastic bag. We then proceeded towards the hot water spring just at the foot of the temple. This kund of hot water actually had hot water spring, which was at a very high temperature. For bathing purposes a small tank was there, where several persons were either taking bath or sitting on its banks with their legs submerged in water. For women folk, a separate facility existed. It was a wonder of nature that by the side of the glacier fed river, there also smiled a hot water spring. After a brief stopover and having a look at the nature around us, we crossed the river over the bridge. A few snapshots of the temple were taken from the bridge, as cameras were not allowed inside the temple.
Behind the temple, the mountain appeared very rugged. Even around, the peaks were not so high. The mountains were also some distance off the river. It was a snow prone area. Here all businesses and the temple were closed by the end of September to reopen in the June of next year.
We waded back through the narrow bazaar. Some purchases were made as a token of memory of the holy visit. The P.C.O. booth was again knocked at but with no success. We reached the place where our buses were parked. The sermons were still going on, in the dharamshala. People who had been resting in the rooms of the dharamshala, were now seen roaming about in verandas. A good number of saffron clad mahatmas were seen at the spot. It was a test of perseverance and strong devotion that some mahatmas had come to Badrinath on foot all the way from their Ashrams. It makes a world of difference, if the journey to Badrinath is undertaken entirely on foot or entirely on a vehicle, which stops just near the temple.
It was lunch break. Khichri was being distributed. We got paper plates and had our share. The langar place was the veranda of the dharamshala. Having finished lunch, the yatris were asked to occupy their seats. All those standing outside the buses got in. The cooking hardware had been re-loaded in the buses. The buses were ready to move.
It was exactly 2 p.m., when we started our return journey from Badrinath temple. The buildings around, the kund and the adjoining mountains slipped into memory as we continued with the descent.
Now, all the seven buses were moving within short distance of each other, so as to maintain visual liaison. We passed along the Hydel works that were in sight from the height. By now the valley had become narrow. The road and the river ran almost parallel to each other. Nothing, except the sound of the vehicles and that of the speeding river water, was audible.
The vehicles stopped one after the other. We had reached back Pandukeshwar. All vehicles had to wait for the next 'gate' timing. After waiting for half an hour, the vehicles moved at 3:30 p.m. Within three minutes, we reached the Bus stop, Gobind Ghat, back which we had left in the morning at 9:10.
www.hemkundji.com
BACK AT GOVIND GHAT GURUDWARA
Seven
BACK AT GOVIND GHAT GURUDWARA
A change in the programme had enabled all of us to visit the famous shrine of Badrinath. Now we were back here fully satisfied and duly blessed; otherwise, it could have remained an unfulfilled desire in anybody's life. Great many thanks to the sagacity of the Jathedar.
We moved towards the Gurudwara. It was learnt that the hall which was vacated in the morning, was to be re-occupied like yester-night. We got a space enough for two beds. The luggage was withdrawn from the 'gathri' house. Meanwhile we also got two blankets. Everybody in the hall set his bed right.
Now we had ample time to move around the campus. We proceeded towards the Darbar Sahib room to offer prayers. Thereafter, we had tea in langar hall. Various buildings in the Gurudwara complex were visited. Some portions were still under construction. Some construction also existed along the Alaknanda. We had a glimpse of the bridge over which the yatris were to pass for onwards journey to Gobind Dham. We then retreated to the hall for rest. Like us, many yatris of our group were taking rest and many were out for sight seeing.
We noted that cartons, big packets, bagfuls and canisters were being brought by porters and stacked in our hall. The containers contained raw material meant for use during the journey. The edibles and some articles were meant for distribution amongst the yatris. All these items had been loaded in the buses at Dehradun. Relevant packets were to be collected and opened to make smaller packets for handing over to each yatri. The Jathedar was waiting for the yatris to be present in the hall.
We sensed that we won't be able to take rest for some time until the items were distributed. So, we decided to have langar. After having langar, we strolled around for sometime. Thereafter, we again made a quick round of the bazaar. We had milk at a shop there. Some of our companions met us at different points. There was a lot of hustle and bustle.
Soon we returned to our hall. All the packets, bags etc. were still lying intact. The items were to be distributed at the earliest. The cause of the delay was not known. Prolonged disturbance was bound to be there.
At that time the jathedar entered the hall with many sevadars and demanded some vacant space for sometime. Immediately, a few beds were rolled up. Requisite cartons and packets were opened and the following items were required to be put in each shoulder bag for handing over to each yatri. The yellow shoulder bag with the printed insignia "Khalsa Yatra committee, Dehradun" together with the contents, was a gift from the Committee.
CONTENTS OF THE BAG
(1) Glucose - 1 packet
(2) Frooti - 2 each
(3) Biscuits - 1 packet
(4) Dry Fruits - 1 packet
(5) Cold Drink - 1 bottle
(6) Roasted Gram - 1 packet
(7) Namkeen - 2 packet
(8) Poppins - 1 packet
The distribution resulted in a large number of packets becoming empty. The space in the hall was now again available for beds. Many yatris of our hall also helped in making the small packets as it involved opening the big packets, taking out one piece, placing it in the bag and then moving the bag on to the next fellow for the second item. Completing the circle for input items, the bag / packet was placed aside. Similarly all the small packets were formed and placed in each shoulder bag.
Now the hall was free of any disturbance. All the bags had been handed over to each respected yatri. The remnant boxes / packets were neatly stacked in the corner near the door. The bagfuls had added to the weight as mostly similar items were already present in our bags. This factor prompted everybody to review the quantity of items to be carried forward. For the sake of convenience in the morning, all the items, including clean / washed clothes, were arranged afresh. The intention was to get ready early in the morning and be on the move. Every yatri was aware of the likely morning rush and the benefits of an early movement. Having done all the possible ready-to-move preparation, all of us began napping and were soon asleep. The door was then closed and the lights switched off.
www.hemkundji.com
BACK AT GOVIND GHAT GURUDWARA
A change in the programme had enabled all of us to visit the famous shrine of Badrinath. Now we were back here fully satisfied and duly blessed; otherwise, it could have remained an unfulfilled desire in anybody's life. Great many thanks to the sagacity of the Jathedar.
We moved towards the Gurudwara. It was learnt that the hall which was vacated in the morning, was to be re-occupied like yester-night. We got a space enough for two beds. The luggage was withdrawn from the 'gathri' house. Meanwhile we also got two blankets. Everybody in the hall set his bed right.
Now we had ample time to move around the campus. We proceeded towards the Darbar Sahib room to offer prayers. Thereafter, we had tea in langar hall. Various buildings in the Gurudwara complex were visited. Some portions were still under construction. Some construction also existed along the Alaknanda. We had a glimpse of the bridge over which the yatris were to pass for onwards journey to Gobind Dham. We then retreated to the hall for rest. Like us, many yatris of our group were taking rest and many were out for sight seeing.
We noted that cartons, big packets, bagfuls and canisters were being brought by porters and stacked in our hall. The containers contained raw material meant for use during the journey. The edibles and some articles were meant for distribution amongst the yatris. All these items had been loaded in the buses at Dehradun. Relevant packets were to be collected and opened to make smaller packets for handing over to each yatri. The Jathedar was waiting for the yatris to be present in the hall.
We sensed that we won't be able to take rest for some time until the items were distributed. So, we decided to have langar. After having langar, we strolled around for sometime. Thereafter, we again made a quick round of the bazaar. We had milk at a shop there. Some of our companions met us at different points. There was a lot of hustle and bustle.
Soon we returned to our hall. All the packets, bags etc. were still lying intact. The items were to be distributed at the earliest. The cause of the delay was not known. Prolonged disturbance was bound to be there.
At that time the jathedar entered the hall with many sevadars and demanded some vacant space for sometime. Immediately, a few beds were rolled up. Requisite cartons and packets were opened and the following items were required to be put in each shoulder bag for handing over to each yatri. The yellow shoulder bag with the printed insignia "Khalsa Yatra committee, Dehradun" together with the contents, was a gift from the Committee.
CONTENTS OF THE BAG
(1) Glucose - 1 packet
(2) Frooti - 2 each
(3) Biscuits - 1 packet
(4) Dry Fruits - 1 packet
(5) Cold Drink - 1 bottle
(6) Roasted Gram - 1 packet
(7) Namkeen - 2 packet
(8) Poppins - 1 packet
The distribution resulted in a large number of packets becoming empty. The space in the hall was now again available for beds. Many yatris of our hall also helped in making the small packets as it involved opening the big packets, taking out one piece, placing it in the bag and then moving the bag on to the next fellow for the second item. Completing the circle for input items, the bag / packet was placed aside. Similarly all the small packets were formed and placed in each shoulder bag.
Now the hall was free of any disturbance. All the bags had been handed over to each respected yatri. The remnant boxes / packets were neatly stacked in the corner near the door. The bagfuls had added to the weight as mostly similar items were already present in our bags. This factor prompted everybody to review the quantity of items to be carried forward. For the sake of convenience in the morning, all the items, including clean / washed clothes, were arranged afresh. The intention was to get ready early in the morning and be on the move. Every yatri was aware of the likely morning rush and the benefits of an early movement. Having done all the possible ready-to-move preparation, all of us began napping and were soon asleep. The door was then closed and the lights switched off.
www.hemkundji.com
JOURNEY - GOVIND GHAT TO GOVIND DHAM
Eight
JOURNEY - GOVIND GHAT TO GOVIND DHAM
It was at 4 AM when we woke up in the morning of 8th July 2002. Some of our companions appeared to have left their beds even earlier than us. The bed was squeezed a bit. We left for the langar hall to take tea, as tea was ever available from 4 AM to midnight for yatris. After taking tea, completing other activities, including bathing, we were nearly ready. Items and clothes that had to be carried were kept in the four shoulder bags. Bottles for Amrit, torches, edibles, medicines, glucose and camera etc. were rechecked for their presence in the bags. All the unwanted things were consigned to the attache case or the bedroll. Both these items were to be deposited at the ‘gathri ghar’. So, both these items were carried to that place. Even at those early hours the queue was quite a long one. It took more than half an hour to get the two items deposited. Actually, it was a time consuming job for the sevadars to receive, check, count and stock the items properly in the racks inside. Other yatris were going ahead after depositing their extra belongings. Many of our friends were standing in the line behind, whereas some were still to come up with their luggage.
After my job was over, I returned to my hall. All the blankets were folded, counted and returned to the store room together with the three durries. Our companions, who passed the night in the nearby hotels, also joined us.
Meanwhile we left for the langar hall. We had tea, chapati and dal. It was sufficient for the time being, as it is troublesome to move uphill with the belly full. For the entire 13 K.M. uphill trek, we had sufficient provisions. Even on the way, many small dhabas were stated to be available where one could have refreshment.
We returned to the hall and found that our companions were taking to the journey one by one. Porters and horse owners were contacting the needy and settling the charges with mutual consent. Some hired porters only for the children and bags. Horses were also hired by many of our friends. Horse owners and porters were present in strength to strike business, as this place was the first and initial one for the incoming yatris, from where the uphill road starts. Yatris from all the halls were pouring out and advancing towards the bridge to cross the Alaknanda.
With bags on our shoulders and one stick each with us, we walked to the Darbar Sahib room and offered prayers for a safe journey and successful yatra. The ‘Bhai ji’ (priest) blessed us with parshad. Like us, other yatris were also begging for blessings from the Almighty. We returned and headed for the bridge becoming one amongst the many other fellow travellers and yatris.
Our feelings of hope and joy knew no bounds when we stopped on the bridge over the mighty Alaknanda at 6:30 a.m. Our sticks also stamped on the bridge, as a token of the march. A huge body of water, simply colourless, was flowing down from our left side. What a terrific flow!
Many horses were seen standing on the hillside, after we crossed the bridge. The owners were requesting the passers by to hire one upto Gobind Dham. Several yatris hired these animals at this spot also. We also handed over one of our bags to a friend, who had hired a horse.
With every step, we were gaining altitude. After crossing a few turns, we reached near the first dhaba, having a shanty roof over it. All the buildings right from the bus stop to the Gurudwara complex were clearly visible. Upto this point, the movement of yatris was visible from the bus stop but beyond the road was not in sight. We were moving on the road made at the left side mountains. On our right hand was flowing the Dhauli Ganga and beyond the river, rose the high rocky mountains. On our left, large parts of rock were lying perched at different heights, which looked awful. Only ‘cheer’ trees and the forest vegetation was in sight. The population appeared sparse. The road was made of rock pieces and stones of various sizes. This was to withstand the traffic of humans and animals, as no portion was metalled with premix of coal tar. We also did not pass by any stray grazing livestock. We were moving amongst the moving yatris. The yatris on horsebacks were moving fast. The porters were also better at their speed as compared to normal public. The loaded horses sometimes posed danger, as they carried items like planks, ghee canisters, kerosene containers and bags of grocery items for shops situated further at higher levels. These horses sometimes give a dangerous pass to the pedestrians, who escape narrowly from falling down into the 'khud'. By grace of Providence; we had such a narrow escape, when a horse forcibly passed through the space available between PARAMJEET and me. I stumbled, but remained firm on feet. The horseman took to his heels and vanished quickly. Horsemen do give warning calls to the travelling public but when the animal goes awry due to any reason, any unfortunate happening could be warded off only by ‘God’ Himself.
The watch showed 8 :05 a.m. We were happy to be at the outskirts of Pulna Gaon. Here the valley was wider. The village comprising a few houses was situated on a tract of long tableland. Here a small school was also on work. Some grown vegetation and livestock were also seen here. Some scattered clusters of apple trees did add to the beauty of the landscape. The road passed along this village.
The road ahead was very arduous. It was not plain, but a chain of successive stairs made of large rock plates and stones. With prayers to Guru Gobind Singh ji, we stepped on slowly. The sticks were very helpful. Glucose biscuits and roasted gram were occasionally used. Simple water had to be sipped every now and then. At the dhabas, a short duration rest was also taken. These dhabas played a very useful role to break the monotony of the yatra, as every such eating and resting place directly and indirectly, refreshed the yatris through packed, fresh and hot variety of edibles.
We reached village Bheudar by 11-15 A.M. Gobind Dham was still 5 K.M. away. It was known that the journey ahead was continuously tough. Moreover, fatigue was telling down on body. The resting gaps were now shorter. Whatever be the position, we had to move on. While passing through this village, we noticed the presence of livestock and also were seen some fields containing some kind of crops, not known to us.
After a kilometer from Bheudar, the Dhauliganga (some call it HimGanga valley) turned left. Just at the turn facing right hand direction, another tributary was joining the HimGanga. The tributary was flowing out of another distinct valley and its water looked like a cascade. Far off was the Hathi Parbat, which commanded a great altitude. Here the valley was a bit wider. The high mountains stood apart. Here the jungles were dense. We were moving almost at the bank of HimGanga, where the road surface was not so high than the river water level. The tumultuous currents were a wonderful scene.
It was about one K.M. away from the turn of the river, that we reached the bridge spanning the river. Before the bridge was situated a dhaba, besides the two after the bridge. It was learnt that these dhabas were the last such places upto Gobind Dham. These are situated at the prestigious location that is 10 K.M. away from Gobind Ghat and 3 KM short of Gobind Dham. All around nature was in its full bloom. Upstream, the glacier appeared to osculate the skyline. We sat at the chair of the first dhaba. The red plastic chairs lying in the open space of jungle and river environs looked different as compared to the atmosphere of mundane city life. For us every bit around us was new and magnetic.
Having chatted for about 20 minutes at the dhaba chairs, we moved forward at 11 PM. over the bridge, under which perennial waters of the HimGanga flowed like that of the Alaknanda waters at Gobind Ghat. The flow of HimGanga was violent and horrible. It was observed, that right from this area of HimGanga down to its confluence point with Alaknanda at Gobind Ghat, it flows around the same high mountain almost course of half a circle.
Some of our companions were still resting in these dhabas. But those on horseback must have reached Gobind Dham long back. We were also nearing our destination. After about hundred yards from the bridge, we began the uphill march. The stone made stairs had started. Now, we were pretty weary. This was clear from our speed. Whosoever coming from the opposite side, was encouraging all the uphill going yatris to buck up saying "you are very near the Gurudwara, hurry up". The entire path was full of yatris. So, nobody lost heart. Further, no resting places were available on the way. This path passed through the jungle not dense enough. This ascent was proving toughest of all so far passed over.
Breathing fast, moving slow, taking frequent rest, using glucose, taking Frooti, munching biscuits and having potions of water etc. on the way, we along with others, crossed through the jungle and reached the large flat ground at Ghangharia. Here, a number of small tents had been erected. It was a camping ground and had some links with the Defence Department.
Glaciers were visible from this plain ground. It also had a Helipad - maybe for use in emergency . All around were very high mountains, but this large tract of high land had no trees in it. It was not clear, why this piece of land was devoid of trees. Perhaps it was so made for safety of the aircraft!
The journey was again continued and very soon we were passing through the narrow bazaar. Just a hundred yards before this bazaar, a number of horses were seen resting under the ‘cheer’ trees. After the camp area upto the bazaar, the ground had a forest of ‘cheer’ trees. This portion of the road and the adjoining area was littered with horse dung, which emitted stinking smell due to moisture.
A few shops past, we were standing before the Gurudwara gate - Gobind Dham. It was nearing 4:30 P.M., we had completed the first part of the uphill journey. It was HIS GRACE. We paid obeisance at the gate and entered the Gurudwara with a sense of achievement, which shall remain short of description!
www.hemkundji.com
JOURNEY - GOVIND GHAT TO GOVIND DHAM
It was at 4 AM when we woke up in the morning of 8th July 2002. Some of our companions appeared to have left their beds even earlier than us. The bed was squeezed a bit. We left for the langar hall to take tea, as tea was ever available from 4 AM to midnight for yatris. After taking tea, completing other activities, including bathing, we were nearly ready. Items and clothes that had to be carried were kept in the four shoulder bags. Bottles for Amrit, torches, edibles, medicines, glucose and camera etc. were rechecked for their presence in the bags. All the unwanted things were consigned to the attache case or the bedroll. Both these items were to be deposited at the ‘gathri ghar’. So, both these items were carried to that place. Even at those early hours the queue was quite a long one. It took more than half an hour to get the two items deposited. Actually, it was a time consuming job for the sevadars to receive, check, count and stock the items properly in the racks inside. Other yatris were going ahead after depositing their extra belongings. Many of our friends were standing in the line behind, whereas some were still to come up with their luggage.
After my job was over, I returned to my hall. All the blankets were folded, counted and returned to the store room together with the three durries. Our companions, who passed the night in the nearby hotels, also joined us.
Meanwhile we left for the langar hall. We had tea, chapati and dal. It was sufficient for the time being, as it is troublesome to move uphill with the belly full. For the entire 13 K.M. uphill trek, we had sufficient provisions. Even on the way, many small dhabas were stated to be available where one could have refreshment.
We returned to the hall and found that our companions were taking to the journey one by one. Porters and horse owners were contacting the needy and settling the charges with mutual consent. Some hired porters only for the children and bags. Horses were also hired by many of our friends. Horse owners and porters were present in strength to strike business, as this place was the first and initial one for the incoming yatris, from where the uphill road starts. Yatris from all the halls were pouring out and advancing towards the bridge to cross the Alaknanda.
With bags on our shoulders and one stick each with us, we walked to the Darbar Sahib room and offered prayers for a safe journey and successful yatra. The ‘Bhai ji’ (priest) blessed us with parshad. Like us, other yatris were also begging for blessings from the Almighty. We returned and headed for the bridge becoming one amongst the many other fellow travellers and yatris.
Our feelings of hope and joy knew no bounds when we stopped on the bridge over the mighty Alaknanda at 6:30 a.m. Our sticks also stamped on the bridge, as a token of the march. A huge body of water, simply colourless, was flowing down from our left side. What a terrific flow!
Many horses were seen standing on the hillside, after we crossed the bridge. The owners were requesting the passers by to hire one upto Gobind Dham. Several yatris hired these animals at this spot also. We also handed over one of our bags to a friend, who had hired a horse.
With every step, we were gaining altitude. After crossing a few turns, we reached near the first dhaba, having a shanty roof over it. All the buildings right from the bus stop to the Gurudwara complex were clearly visible. Upto this point, the movement of yatris was visible from the bus stop but beyond the road was not in sight. We were moving on the road made at the left side mountains. On our right hand was flowing the Dhauli Ganga and beyond the river, rose the high rocky mountains. On our left, large parts of rock were lying perched at different heights, which looked awful. Only ‘cheer’ trees and the forest vegetation was in sight. The population appeared sparse. The road was made of rock pieces and stones of various sizes. This was to withstand the traffic of humans and animals, as no portion was metalled with premix of coal tar. We also did not pass by any stray grazing livestock. We were moving amongst the moving yatris. The yatris on horsebacks were moving fast. The porters were also better at their speed as compared to normal public. The loaded horses sometimes posed danger, as they carried items like planks, ghee canisters, kerosene containers and bags of grocery items for shops situated further at higher levels. These horses sometimes give a dangerous pass to the pedestrians, who escape narrowly from falling down into the 'khud'. By grace of Providence; we had such a narrow escape, when a horse forcibly passed through the space available between PARAMJEET and me. I stumbled, but remained firm on feet. The horseman took to his heels and vanished quickly. Horsemen do give warning calls to the travelling public but when the animal goes awry due to any reason, any unfortunate happening could be warded off only by ‘God’ Himself.
The watch showed 8 :05 a.m. We were happy to be at the outskirts of Pulna Gaon. Here the valley was wider. The village comprising a few houses was situated on a tract of long tableland. Here a small school was also on work. Some grown vegetation and livestock were also seen here. Some scattered clusters of apple trees did add to the beauty of the landscape. The road passed along this village.
The road ahead was very arduous. It was not plain, but a chain of successive stairs made of large rock plates and stones. With prayers to Guru Gobind Singh ji, we stepped on slowly. The sticks were very helpful. Glucose biscuits and roasted gram were occasionally used. Simple water had to be sipped every now and then. At the dhabas, a short duration rest was also taken. These dhabas played a very useful role to break the monotony of the yatra, as every such eating and resting place directly and indirectly, refreshed the yatris through packed, fresh and hot variety of edibles.
We reached village Bheudar by 11-15 A.M. Gobind Dham was still 5 K.M. away. It was known that the journey ahead was continuously tough. Moreover, fatigue was telling down on body. The resting gaps were now shorter. Whatever be the position, we had to move on. While passing through this village, we noticed the presence of livestock and also were seen some fields containing some kind of crops, not known to us.
After a kilometer from Bheudar, the Dhauliganga (some call it HimGanga valley) turned left. Just at the turn facing right hand direction, another tributary was joining the HimGanga. The tributary was flowing out of another distinct valley and its water looked like a cascade. Far off was the Hathi Parbat, which commanded a great altitude. Here the valley was a bit wider. The high mountains stood apart. Here the jungles were dense. We were moving almost at the bank of HimGanga, where the road surface was not so high than the river water level. The tumultuous currents were a wonderful scene.
It was about one K.M. away from the turn of the river, that we reached the bridge spanning the river. Before the bridge was situated a dhaba, besides the two after the bridge. It was learnt that these dhabas were the last such places upto Gobind Dham. These are situated at the prestigious location that is 10 K.M. away from Gobind Ghat and 3 KM short of Gobind Dham. All around nature was in its full bloom. Upstream, the glacier appeared to osculate the skyline. We sat at the chair of the first dhaba. The red plastic chairs lying in the open space of jungle and river environs looked different as compared to the atmosphere of mundane city life. For us every bit around us was new and magnetic.
Having chatted for about 20 minutes at the dhaba chairs, we moved forward at 11 PM. over the bridge, under which perennial waters of the HimGanga flowed like that of the Alaknanda waters at Gobind Ghat. The flow of HimGanga was violent and horrible. It was observed, that right from this area of HimGanga down to its confluence point with Alaknanda at Gobind Ghat, it flows around the same high mountain almost course of half a circle.
Some of our companions were still resting in these dhabas. But those on horseback must have reached Gobind Dham long back. We were also nearing our destination. After about hundred yards from the bridge, we began the uphill march. The stone made stairs had started. Now, we were pretty weary. This was clear from our speed. Whosoever coming from the opposite side, was encouraging all the uphill going yatris to buck up saying "you are very near the Gurudwara, hurry up". The entire path was full of yatris. So, nobody lost heart. Further, no resting places were available on the way. This path passed through the jungle not dense enough. This ascent was proving toughest of all so far passed over.
Breathing fast, moving slow, taking frequent rest, using glucose, taking Frooti, munching biscuits and having potions of water etc. on the way, we along with others, crossed through the jungle and reached the large flat ground at Ghangharia. Here, a number of small tents had been erected. It was a camping ground and had some links with the Defence Department.
Glaciers were visible from this plain ground. It also had a Helipad - maybe for use in emergency . All around were very high mountains, but this large tract of high land had no trees in it. It was not clear, why this piece of land was devoid of trees. Perhaps it was so made for safety of the aircraft!
The journey was again continued and very soon we were passing through the narrow bazaar. Just a hundred yards before this bazaar, a number of horses were seen resting under the ‘cheer’ trees. After the camp area upto the bazaar, the ground had a forest of ‘cheer’ trees. This portion of the road and the adjoining area was littered with horse dung, which emitted stinking smell due to moisture.
A few shops past, we were standing before the Gurudwara gate - Gobind Dham. It was nearing 4:30 P.M., we had completed the first part of the uphill journey. It was HIS GRACE. We paid obeisance at the gate and entered the Gurudwara with a sense of achievement, which shall remain short of description!
www.hemkundji.com
ARRIVAL AT GOVIND DHAM GURUDWARA
Nine
ARRIVAL AT GOVIND DHAM GURUDWARA
On our left was holy Nishan Sahib. We bowed heads on the platform and proceeded towards the Darbar Sahib Hall (on our right side) to offer prayers. This enclosed area had roof of iron sheets over it. On its North were the Langar Hall and Yatri Halls over it, on the East were the Darbar Sahib Hall and a facility, to its West were the office room, gathri ghar, the room for issuing Parshad receipts and over it the Yatri Hall and on the South was the main gate. The floor of this enclosure was full with resting Yatris. After a brief respite, we had tea in the veranda of the Langar Hall. Now, we were to check as to which room had been booked for our group. On enquiry, the sevadar directed us to go to hall no 3 at second floor. We stepped up through the winding concrete staircase and reached the said hall slowly.
Most of our companions had reached early. Especially, those on horsebacks were inside the hall by 12:45 PM, In the vacant space, we spread two foam mattresses and picked up four blankets for each bed. The beds were shaped up for cozy rest. For convenience of the yatris, the floors of the halls had surfaces made of wooden planks. It was to avoid contact of the beds with the too cold concrete floors.
Now, we slumbered in the bed. Mostly, the yatris were seen resting or sleeping, some were getting a massage treatment to off set fatigue and be ready for the next move. The veteran yatris, who had undertaken this yatra earlier, had an air of self-confidence with them. But the first timers like us, were operating cautiously, so as to steer clear of any mistake or lapses which could land them into difficulties.
We left the bed after 7 P.M. and made a round of the public conveniences. Then landed down at the langar hall. We had chapati, dal and pickle. Lukewarm water was served. After some utensil seva by PARAMJEET, we had tea outside in the veranda. Because of low temperature here, it was advisable to have intake of hot water in the form of tepid water, hot tea / coffee and hot milk.
Like the short bazaar at Badrinath and Gobind Ghat, here the bazaar area was also a small one. We had desired to have a look at the total length of the bazaar and to know if it was different in any respect.. Common items like fake jewellery, rosaries of various origins and qualities, karas, rings, toys and pieces for decoration were on display. The rates were exorbitant. There were halwai shops selling sweets, pakoras, tea, milk etc. There were also small hotels available for the yatris. Garhwal MandaI Vikas Nigam had also constructed the Rest House facility at Gobind Dham. The market thrived only during the yatra season when the place was blessed with the rush of yatris. We had preferred to visit the bazaar than to get holed up in the beds, as consequent to uphill journey and resultant weariness, sound sleep was bound to prevail upon us.
Now, we felt a little satisfied. Stopping at a halwai shop, we enjoyed two glasses of hot milk for Rs 20 per glass. After the intake of milk, we returned to the Gurudwara and we had our langar and tea in the Gurudwara, as we were staying in the Gurudwara with other fellow yatris. But there were also persons, who stayed and lodged in the hotels available nearby.
The yatris had thinned out to their rooms for rest. Bowing our heads in front of the Darbar Sahib room, we moved towards the main hall. Langar was still being served. We reached the room within a few minutes and were back in our beds.
For the onward journey beginning the next day morning, only selected items were to be carried in bags. We confirmed that the clean clothes, bottle for Amrit, rain coats, dry fruits, edibles, soft drinks, torch, medicines, water bottles and the camera, were right there in our bags. The walking sticks were also intact and safely kept.
Meanwhile, the Jathedar had also managed his bed for resting in our hall. The generator was switched off. There was now darkness all around. There was no powerhouse to supply electricity to this area.
It was well past 11 PM. Having mustered all possible satisfaction regarding our preparation for the next journey early tomorrow, we retired to sleep soliciting HIS BLESSINGS.
www.hemkundji.com
ARRIVAL AT GOVIND DHAM GURUDWARA
On our left was holy Nishan Sahib. We bowed heads on the platform and proceeded towards the Darbar Sahib Hall (on our right side) to offer prayers. This enclosed area had roof of iron sheets over it. On its North were the Langar Hall and Yatri Halls over it, on the East were the Darbar Sahib Hall and a facility, to its West were the office room, gathri ghar, the room for issuing Parshad receipts and over it the Yatri Hall and on the South was the main gate. The floor of this enclosure was full with resting Yatris. After a brief respite, we had tea in the veranda of the Langar Hall. Now, we were to check as to which room had been booked for our group. On enquiry, the sevadar directed us to go to hall no 3 at second floor. We stepped up through the winding concrete staircase and reached the said hall slowly.
Most of our companions had reached early. Especially, those on horsebacks were inside the hall by 12:45 PM, In the vacant space, we spread two foam mattresses and picked up four blankets for each bed. The beds were shaped up for cozy rest. For convenience of the yatris, the floors of the halls had surfaces made of wooden planks. It was to avoid contact of the beds with the too cold concrete floors.
Now, we slumbered in the bed. Mostly, the yatris were seen resting or sleeping, some were getting a massage treatment to off set fatigue and be ready for the next move. The veteran yatris, who had undertaken this yatra earlier, had an air of self-confidence with them. But the first timers like us, were operating cautiously, so as to steer clear of any mistake or lapses which could land them into difficulties.
We left the bed after 7 P.M. and made a round of the public conveniences. Then landed down at the langar hall. We had chapati, dal and pickle. Lukewarm water was served. After some utensil seva by PARAMJEET, we had tea outside in the veranda. Because of low temperature here, it was advisable to have intake of hot water in the form of tepid water, hot tea / coffee and hot milk.
Like the short bazaar at Badrinath and Gobind Ghat, here the bazaar area was also a small one. We had desired to have a look at the total length of the bazaar and to know if it was different in any respect.. Common items like fake jewellery, rosaries of various origins and qualities, karas, rings, toys and pieces for decoration were on display. The rates were exorbitant. There were halwai shops selling sweets, pakoras, tea, milk etc. There were also small hotels available for the yatris. Garhwal MandaI Vikas Nigam had also constructed the Rest House facility at Gobind Dham. The market thrived only during the yatra season when the place was blessed with the rush of yatris. We had preferred to visit the bazaar than to get holed up in the beds, as consequent to uphill journey and resultant weariness, sound sleep was bound to prevail upon us.
Now, we felt a little satisfied. Stopping at a halwai shop, we enjoyed two glasses of hot milk for Rs 20 per glass. After the intake of milk, we returned to the Gurudwara and we had our langar and tea in the Gurudwara, as we were staying in the Gurudwara with other fellow yatris. But there were also persons, who stayed and lodged in the hotels available nearby.
The yatris had thinned out to their rooms for rest. Bowing our heads in front of the Darbar Sahib room, we moved towards the main hall. Langar was still being served. We reached the room within a few minutes and were back in our beds.
For the onward journey beginning the next day morning, only selected items were to be carried in bags. We confirmed that the clean clothes, bottle for Amrit, rain coats, dry fruits, edibles, soft drinks, torch, medicines, water bottles and the camera, were right there in our bags. The walking sticks were also intact and safely kept.
Meanwhile, the Jathedar had also managed his bed for resting in our hall. The generator was switched off. There was now darkness all around. There was no powerhouse to supply electricity to this area.
It was well past 11 PM. Having mustered all possible satisfaction regarding our preparation for the next journey early tomorrow, we retired to sleep soliciting HIS BLESSINGS.
www.hemkundji.com
MORNING AT GOVIND DHAM
Ten
MORNING AT GOVIND DHAM
After all, the long awaited day and the memorable moments arrived. We stirred out of sleep. There was darkness all around the hall. The generator was to be started at 3-30 A.M. but it was still a little past 2-30 A.M. Most of the yatris were still fast asleep. Outside, it was drizzling. A gentleman entered the hall from the bathroom complex. We understood that it was time to get up; otherwise, there would be rush at every step. Picking up the tooth brushes with tips of toothpaste, we moved out together with requisite clothes. It was very cold outside. It had stopped raining by then. Very many yatris were busy outside like us. The water was hard and bitter cold. Bathing appeared to be a feat of courage. The water being such, soap lather was not getting removed easily. After taking the bath, I returned to the hall. PARAMJEET had returned a few minutes earlier.
By 3:05 a.m. we were resting back in our beds. By now, a few more companions had woken up. The generator had also been activated. Within a few minutes, the lights were switched on. It was 3:30 a.m. There was now the sound of the generator and the voice of the respective yatris. The task before all of us was to get ready, as early as possible, so as to embark upon the next portion of the journey which was the ‘journey’ in its real sense.
People were seen moving around in all directions, moving to and fro, with tooth brush in hand while some put it in their mouth straight away, some fetched towels, clothes, soap etc, some combed their hair, changed clothes, gossiped about the cold and hard water with the difficulty in removing soap etc. The hall was very dimly lit due to low voltage and the solitary bulb that glowed in the large firmament of our hall.
The activity was picking up all around. We desired to have tea and thus went-down stairs. Our clothes/bags were almost in place, so we were not at worry. There was active movement and the hustle bustle of yatris in the Gurudwara complex as some had to go uphill while others downhill on return journey. We had one glass full of tea each after we had paid obeisance before the Darbar Sahib. Regaining a little of heat energy, we traced our steps back to the hall.
We rested and talked with others for sometime. It was 4:30 a.m. when we folded our blankets, placed them properly and picking up our sticks and shoulder bags left the room. All the extra articles were to be left at the bed, as we were to have night rest here in the same hall. After the exit of all the yatris, the hall was to be locked. All the yatris, who did not have an arrangement like that of ours, were to deposit their extra belongings at the ‘gathri’ room.
soon, we reached at the ground floor. All over there was a big rush as the Sangat was getting ready for the holy onward / return journey. Gaiety and enthusiasm gripped the yatris for putting their first foot forward. Faces bright with hopes, of children, men and women of all ages, beamed all around.
We had information that langar would not be available at Hemkund Sahib. So one had to depend on the langar taken at Gobind Dham or on the edibles carried with self or available at dhabas en-route. So, we had 'mitha parshad' with dal and tea. (mitha parshad in Gurudwara parlance is the food that remained spare after the previous langar). “Mitha parshada” and tea were served in the veranda of the langar hall. Almost every yatri was desirous of having 'mitha parshada' and tea before undertaking journey for Hemkund Sahib during the same limited time. Though chapattis were served on hands, glasses were needed for getting hot tea. Thus with some effort, one could get the glasses. PARAMJEET arranged two glasses from the washing spot, only then we could take tea with chapattis.
Some yatris who were not a part of the organized yatra, deposited their extra luggage at the ‘gathri ghar’. Thank God we did not face this formality.
Small lathies in the hands of every yatri presented a charming scene and looked like an army of devotees on the march. Sticks with spikes, with varnish stripes, with angled hands and with missile shaped iron ends, were in sight. These sticks virtually provided strength and support to the traveller to move up the hills safely. It was a must friend. PARAMJEET had a sleek iron-ended stick, whereas mine was comparatively thicker and heavier with a blunt end.
Before leaving, we proceeded towards the Darbar Sahib room, offered prayers and paid obeisance for the successful journey ahead. We then moved to the ‘Nishan Sahib’, bowed our heads with folded hands praying for the grant of tall strength and perseverance.
With folded hands, we begged acceptance from the Almighty to start the journey for Hemkund Sahib. We moved out at 5 a.m. with the jaikara "Bole So Nihal Sat Sri Akal" and started walking with the fellow yatris.
www.hemkundji.com
MORNING AT GOVIND DHAM
After all, the long awaited day and the memorable moments arrived. We stirred out of sleep. There was darkness all around the hall. The generator was to be started at 3-30 A.M. but it was still a little past 2-30 A.M. Most of the yatris were still fast asleep. Outside, it was drizzling. A gentleman entered the hall from the bathroom complex. We understood that it was time to get up; otherwise, there would be rush at every step. Picking up the tooth brushes with tips of toothpaste, we moved out together with requisite clothes. It was very cold outside. It had stopped raining by then. Very many yatris were busy outside like us. The water was hard and bitter cold. Bathing appeared to be a feat of courage. The water being such, soap lather was not getting removed easily. After taking the bath, I returned to the hall. PARAMJEET had returned a few minutes earlier.
By 3:05 a.m. we were resting back in our beds. By now, a few more companions had woken up. The generator had also been activated. Within a few minutes, the lights were switched on. It was 3:30 a.m. There was now the sound of the generator and the voice of the respective yatris. The task before all of us was to get ready, as early as possible, so as to embark upon the next portion of the journey which was the ‘journey’ in its real sense.
People were seen moving around in all directions, moving to and fro, with tooth brush in hand while some put it in their mouth straight away, some fetched towels, clothes, soap etc, some combed their hair, changed clothes, gossiped about the cold and hard water with the difficulty in removing soap etc. The hall was very dimly lit due to low voltage and the solitary bulb that glowed in the large firmament of our hall.
The activity was picking up all around. We desired to have tea and thus went-down stairs. Our clothes/bags were almost in place, so we were not at worry. There was active movement and the hustle bustle of yatris in the Gurudwara complex as some had to go uphill while others downhill on return journey. We had one glass full of tea each after we had paid obeisance before the Darbar Sahib. Regaining a little of heat energy, we traced our steps back to the hall.
We rested and talked with others for sometime. It was 4:30 a.m. when we folded our blankets, placed them properly and picking up our sticks and shoulder bags left the room. All the extra articles were to be left at the bed, as we were to have night rest here in the same hall. After the exit of all the yatris, the hall was to be locked. All the yatris, who did not have an arrangement like that of ours, were to deposit their extra belongings at the ‘gathri’ room.
soon, we reached at the ground floor. All over there was a big rush as the Sangat was getting ready for the holy onward / return journey. Gaiety and enthusiasm gripped the yatris for putting their first foot forward. Faces bright with hopes, of children, men and women of all ages, beamed all around.
We had information that langar would not be available at Hemkund Sahib. So one had to depend on the langar taken at Gobind Dham or on the edibles carried with self or available at dhabas en-route. So, we had 'mitha parshad' with dal and tea. (mitha parshad in Gurudwara parlance is the food that remained spare after the previous langar). “Mitha parshada” and tea were served in the veranda of the langar hall. Almost every yatri was desirous of having 'mitha parshada' and tea before undertaking journey for Hemkund Sahib during the same limited time. Though chapattis were served on hands, glasses were needed for getting hot tea. Thus with some effort, one could get the glasses. PARAMJEET arranged two glasses from the washing spot, only then we could take tea with chapattis.
Some yatris who were not a part of the organized yatra, deposited their extra luggage at the ‘gathri ghar’. Thank God we did not face this formality.
Small lathies in the hands of every yatri presented a charming scene and looked like an army of devotees on the march. Sticks with spikes, with varnish stripes, with angled hands and with missile shaped iron ends, were in sight. These sticks virtually provided strength and support to the traveller to move up the hills safely. It was a must friend. PARAMJEET had a sleek iron-ended stick, whereas mine was comparatively thicker and heavier with a blunt end.
Before leaving, we proceeded towards the Darbar Sahib room, offered prayers and paid obeisance for the successful journey ahead. We then moved to the ‘Nishan Sahib’, bowed our heads with folded hands praying for the grant of tall strength and perseverance.
With folded hands, we begged acceptance from the Almighty to start the journey for Hemkund Sahib. We moved out at 5 a.m. with the jaikara "Bole So Nihal Sat Sri Akal" and started walking with the fellow yatris.
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JOURNEY - GOVIND DHAM TO SRI HEMKUND SAHIB
Eleven
JOURNEY - GOVIND DHAM TO SRI HEMKUND SAHIB
We could see that some shops had opened in the bazaar. Note worthy sale was that of milk, tea, parathas and bread pakoras. Our companions who had been in some of the hotels at night, were also joining the stream of yatris. The small bazaar was also abuzz with the horse owners and porters. Per head horse charge up to Hemkund Sahib was Rs 200/-, whereas a pithoo could be hired for Rs. 100/- for one-way journey. Yatris, like elderly men, women, children or other persons, who for any reason could not walk on at the tedious uphill journey, hired horses for the 6 K.M. trek up to Hemkund Sahib. A porter could be hired for smaller children or carriage of bags etc.
Deserving special mention were the horses, which were the main means of transport there. These horses, primarily meant to provide lift to humans during the yatra period, were tamed nicely and named in colorful names. The horses (actually mares, called by owners as horses) responded to the commands of their owners sincerely and accurately. They were sturdy and sure-footed. By colour they were brown, black, white and some bi-coloured. Some children did prefer a particular colour of the horse. The horse owners prompted their clients with guidelines for safe journey i.e. be slant forward while climbing, do not panic to see the narrow zigzag stairs made of stones and do not feel upset to see the deep gorges. The bags, if any, were balanced on the shoulders of the horses.
PARAMJEET and I preferred to reach atop on foot. But a good number of our companions had hired horses for uphill journey up to Hemkund Sahib. The caravan of humans and horses had set out for a holy mission.
Just about half a kilometer from the Gurudwara, was a small bridge, under which the glacier water flowed. The glacier itself was on our right side. The road turned a bit to our right hand side and we began proceeding along the banks of the glacier. The glacier lay upward majestically in the valley and water gushed out of its thick belly. There were some large gaping holes in the glacier surface. The bridge appeared damaged and drifted from its base due to the downward skidding of the glacier or the impact of the high-speed water channel. After the bridge, there was a guidepost indicating in the left side direction the way for the ‘Valley of Flowers’ famous for its unique high altitude rare multitude of natural flowers. The valley, bounded by very high mountains on three sides and stated to be over three kilometers away from the sign post, was at the most free of snow for about three months after June every year; otherwise, it remained snow clad. Horses were not allowed to tread that area. We had no plans to visit that valley as the flowering time, which brings a riot of colours to the said valley, was stated to be at prime normally from mid-July to mid-August or so. We moved on in the right side direction.
About six-foot wide stone and rock-stitched staircase like path prepared along the right side of the high rise cliff mountain was leading towards the summit. This was blooming with human forms richly clad in colourful clothes that looked like flowers moving while praying and chanting Gurbani. The onslaught of wearing down remained subdued due to strong will of the devotees. Everything around us was new and fresh to us and our eyes were longing to see more and more whenever we rested. Just like others, we tried to enjoy the details of nature. While we were sitting on a stone after a bend, we noticed a writing in white paint, which read 1.200. That meant that a distance of a little over one kilometer only was covered. The remaining five kilometers were yet to be covered. The simple answer was to mind moving up only with courage, better speed and prayers.
On the way, there were roughshod dhabas run by locals. These were nestled on vintage places, turns etc. where gasping yatris could stop, take a little respite and refresh themselves. These tuck shops offered services more or less of the same description as were available during the journey between Gobind Ghat and Gobind Dham. Special importance was definitely being given to the presentation of Aloo Parathas as per Punjabi taste. Every dhaba had benches of wood planks covered with durries or blankets for the comfort of visitors. Depending on the availability of space some had tables decorated with chairs around. Some dhabas played even Punjabi folk music for the amusement and attraction of Punjabis.
As we ascended, the prices of the edibles and soft drinks also increased with reference to the increase in transportation charges. Apart from the pedestrians, the tight sitting and tension ridden horse riders also preferred to refresh at any of the dhabas. The guests were given business oriented honour at the dhabas and mostly the owners were not found wanting in manners. The owners were pretty well aware that their peak business season graced with the journey of yatris was limited almost to four months. They had to make the dhaba ready before start of the yatra season.
The entire dhaba structure was a skeleton of wood- basically ‘cheer’ tree logs and planks. The deftness with which the backside logs were drilled deep into the sharp slopes was commendable. The sturdy logs were tied tightly and nailed. The surface planks were joined together with long nails-leaving no room for looseness. One could hardly feel that the platform, on which he was sitting, was hollow underneath. The basement was, however, made rock firm and secure through a network of crossbars, so as to make it risk proof for the visitors.
We had walked up more than half way when from a turn, the yatris had the first hazy glimpse of the holy Nishan Sahib at an elevation of over 60 degree. The size of the Nishan Sahib and the loudspeaker fixed with it, looked like a small walking stick and that of the hockey ball respectively. We could also see the furling flag and the shining khanda atop the Nishan Sahib. A part of the Gurudwara roof was also visible, as it reflected sunlight.
We carried on our march forward chanting ‘His’ name and would have covered about a kilometer when the voice of the Gurudwara granthi was first heard through the loudspeaker. The time of the First Ardas fixed for 9: 15 a.m. was nearing fast. The Bhai ji was reciting Gurbani and giving related Sermons to the devotees, who were in attendance inside the Gurudwara. We also listened to the Bhai ji through the loud speaker, with rampant attention, till the Ardas was over. We were still far below the Gurudwara. So, it was hoped that by 11:15, the time for the Second Ardas, we would be inside the Gurudwara. That was really our heartfelt desire and prayer.
We were rejoicing in the lap of nature. We felt that a part of our fatigue was getting off set by nature and its bounties. On our left, was the majestic high mountain and on the right, deep gorges and sounding waters. Behind us but very far off, were shining large tracts of snow, perched between and on top of the high peaks. These snow stocks and glaciers were not visible from down below. Now, we could see from such an altitude at which we were on the move, as to how immeasurable natural assets of snow blessed the rivers with a perennial supply of water. We saw that the glacier to our right side grew larger upwards steadily.
We also saw that at intervals, the horses who had ferried yatris to the top, were crossing us on their return journey to Gobind Dham. Some horse owners offered to provide a lift to the up-going yatris, but on an uncompromising high rate. Appreciable was the will of those pilgrims, who were resolute to reach Hemkund Sahib under all circumstances-even by hiring palkies. It is a different mode of movement. A palky is made of two long poles of strong wood. At the center between the two poles a chair like seat is fixed. The client is seated in that. Four bearers, two each in front and back haul the palky in rhythmic steps. Just like a porter, the palky bearers had also got to be very tough and sturdy. The charges per palky were comparatively higher, as the amount was to be divided amongst the four persons.
Our steps were a few yards away from the glacier which we were to walk over. A colourless sheet of snow was before us. A current of pleasure engulfed us, as we began treading over the snow path. Snow on our left was about four feet high and zero on our right. A warning rope was tied on fixed poles on our right to guide the pedestrians and animals to walk on safer side. We walked on snow with the help of bamboo sticks sometimes pricking them into snow. This small part of the journey, special in its being and over a hundred feet in length was very risky. Traffic passed over it on both the sides. One could slip, so, maximum care had to be taken while crossing this length of the path. Praying and singing hymns, the yatris went on. On the snow path, human figures looked pygmies against the backdrop of the huge plate of snow. Two men were busy on the job to maintain the path clear of snow, with shovels. Ripples of fear were felt in spine while the glacier passage was trudged.
After crossing the snow, we again found some dhabas by the roadside with the yatris sitting inside them. We had our snacks, edibles, soft drinks and dry fruits with us, which were being used to beat hunger and fatigue. The glacier was now to our left and appeared as if touching the sky. Few bends changed our direction. Now, to the left of our zigzag path lay countless black large cube like boulders, which appeared to have broken apart from the high peaks in the process of natural geographic changes. Even under these huge stones, water oozed out.
Now, we were crossing over an improvised bridge under which fast stream of snow water flowed tumultuously. There were no safety planks on the sides of this bridge. One had to be very vigilant while crossing over this bridge, as any passing by horse could knock one down.
After crossing the bridge, we reached a very important place where the path bifurcated into two - one long branch for the horses and the other shorter one for the pedestrians. The short path was totally arduous, as it comprised 1125 upward steps. We opted for the steps and bowing to the Welcome Gate built at the start of the footsteps, we started the uphill journey on stone steps. It was a very tough step climbing but not an obstacle for the Guru's devotees.
The steps were formed by fixing large stone plates, cut stones and pieces of requisite sizes for dovetailing and ensuring maximum possible stability. One would wonder, how defty hands had erected the step walls with precision without using cement, mortar and iron. The workmanship reflected devotion and selfless service to the yatris with the blessings of Sri Guru Gobind Singh Ji.
After every few steps, a plain resting place was made to enable the yatris to bring the breathing rate back to normal. It was heartening to note that the entire service upto the formation and maintenance of these steps was done by the Border Roads Organisation. That was a tough and telling work which they undertook in the selfless service of the Guru and His yatris.
As we progressed, the yatris returning from the Gurudwara Hemkund Sahib infused courage into the up-going pilgrims, saying: Buck up-you have done it-Gurudwara is just at hand-"Bole So Nihal Sat Sri Akal.. .etc.," The returning yatris were darting downwards whereas we were yet to reach our destination. Getting invigorated with the courage booster capsules, there was some load shedding of weariness in our bodies. By now, we were having a sense of fulfillment of our cherished objective-' Darshan Snaan' of Sri ‘Hemkund Sahib’.
www.hemkundji.com
JOURNEY - GOVIND DHAM TO SRI HEMKUND SAHIB
We could see that some shops had opened in the bazaar. Note worthy sale was that of milk, tea, parathas and bread pakoras. Our companions who had been in some of the hotels at night, were also joining the stream of yatris. The small bazaar was also abuzz with the horse owners and porters. Per head horse charge up to Hemkund Sahib was Rs 200/-, whereas a pithoo could be hired for Rs. 100/- for one-way journey. Yatris, like elderly men, women, children or other persons, who for any reason could not walk on at the tedious uphill journey, hired horses for the 6 K.M. trek up to Hemkund Sahib. A porter could be hired for smaller children or carriage of bags etc.
Deserving special mention were the horses, which were the main means of transport there. These horses, primarily meant to provide lift to humans during the yatra period, were tamed nicely and named in colorful names. The horses (actually mares, called by owners as horses) responded to the commands of their owners sincerely and accurately. They were sturdy and sure-footed. By colour they were brown, black, white and some bi-coloured. Some children did prefer a particular colour of the horse. The horse owners prompted their clients with guidelines for safe journey i.e. be slant forward while climbing, do not panic to see the narrow zigzag stairs made of stones and do not feel upset to see the deep gorges. The bags, if any, were balanced on the shoulders of the horses.
PARAMJEET and I preferred to reach atop on foot. But a good number of our companions had hired horses for uphill journey up to Hemkund Sahib. The caravan of humans and horses had set out for a holy mission.
Just about half a kilometer from the Gurudwara, was a small bridge, under which the glacier water flowed. The glacier itself was on our right side. The road turned a bit to our right hand side and we began proceeding along the banks of the glacier. The glacier lay upward majestically in the valley and water gushed out of its thick belly. There were some large gaping holes in the glacier surface. The bridge appeared damaged and drifted from its base due to the downward skidding of the glacier or the impact of the high-speed water channel. After the bridge, there was a guidepost indicating in the left side direction the way for the ‘Valley of Flowers’ famous for its unique high altitude rare multitude of natural flowers. The valley, bounded by very high mountains on three sides and stated to be over three kilometers away from the sign post, was at the most free of snow for about three months after June every year; otherwise, it remained snow clad. Horses were not allowed to tread that area. We had no plans to visit that valley as the flowering time, which brings a riot of colours to the said valley, was stated to be at prime normally from mid-July to mid-August or so. We moved on in the right side direction.
About six-foot wide stone and rock-stitched staircase like path prepared along the right side of the high rise cliff mountain was leading towards the summit. This was blooming with human forms richly clad in colourful clothes that looked like flowers moving while praying and chanting Gurbani. The onslaught of wearing down remained subdued due to strong will of the devotees. Everything around us was new and fresh to us and our eyes were longing to see more and more whenever we rested. Just like others, we tried to enjoy the details of nature. While we were sitting on a stone after a bend, we noticed a writing in white paint, which read 1.200. That meant that a distance of a little over one kilometer only was covered. The remaining five kilometers were yet to be covered. The simple answer was to mind moving up only with courage, better speed and prayers.
On the way, there were roughshod dhabas run by locals. These were nestled on vintage places, turns etc. where gasping yatris could stop, take a little respite and refresh themselves. These tuck shops offered services more or less of the same description as were available during the journey between Gobind Ghat and Gobind Dham. Special importance was definitely being given to the presentation of Aloo Parathas as per Punjabi taste. Every dhaba had benches of wood planks covered with durries or blankets for the comfort of visitors. Depending on the availability of space some had tables decorated with chairs around. Some dhabas played even Punjabi folk music for the amusement and attraction of Punjabis.
As we ascended, the prices of the edibles and soft drinks also increased with reference to the increase in transportation charges. Apart from the pedestrians, the tight sitting and tension ridden horse riders also preferred to refresh at any of the dhabas. The guests were given business oriented honour at the dhabas and mostly the owners were not found wanting in manners. The owners were pretty well aware that their peak business season graced with the journey of yatris was limited almost to four months. They had to make the dhaba ready before start of the yatra season.
The entire dhaba structure was a skeleton of wood- basically ‘cheer’ tree logs and planks. The deftness with which the backside logs were drilled deep into the sharp slopes was commendable. The sturdy logs were tied tightly and nailed. The surface planks were joined together with long nails-leaving no room for looseness. One could hardly feel that the platform, on which he was sitting, was hollow underneath. The basement was, however, made rock firm and secure through a network of crossbars, so as to make it risk proof for the visitors.
We had walked up more than half way when from a turn, the yatris had the first hazy glimpse of the holy Nishan Sahib at an elevation of over 60 degree. The size of the Nishan Sahib and the loudspeaker fixed with it, looked like a small walking stick and that of the hockey ball respectively. We could also see the furling flag and the shining khanda atop the Nishan Sahib. A part of the Gurudwara roof was also visible, as it reflected sunlight.
We carried on our march forward chanting ‘His’ name and would have covered about a kilometer when the voice of the Gurudwara granthi was first heard through the loudspeaker. The time of the First Ardas fixed for 9: 15 a.m. was nearing fast. The Bhai ji was reciting Gurbani and giving related Sermons to the devotees, who were in attendance inside the Gurudwara. We also listened to the Bhai ji through the loud speaker, with rampant attention, till the Ardas was over. We were still far below the Gurudwara. So, it was hoped that by 11:15, the time for the Second Ardas, we would be inside the Gurudwara. That was really our heartfelt desire and prayer.
We were rejoicing in the lap of nature. We felt that a part of our fatigue was getting off set by nature and its bounties. On our left, was the majestic high mountain and on the right, deep gorges and sounding waters. Behind us but very far off, were shining large tracts of snow, perched between and on top of the high peaks. These snow stocks and glaciers were not visible from down below. Now, we could see from such an altitude at which we were on the move, as to how immeasurable natural assets of snow blessed the rivers with a perennial supply of water. We saw that the glacier to our right side grew larger upwards steadily.
We also saw that at intervals, the horses who had ferried yatris to the top, were crossing us on their return journey to Gobind Dham. Some horse owners offered to provide a lift to the up-going yatris, but on an uncompromising high rate. Appreciable was the will of those pilgrims, who were resolute to reach Hemkund Sahib under all circumstances-even by hiring palkies. It is a different mode of movement. A palky is made of two long poles of strong wood. At the center between the two poles a chair like seat is fixed. The client is seated in that. Four bearers, two each in front and back haul the palky in rhythmic steps. Just like a porter, the palky bearers had also got to be very tough and sturdy. The charges per palky were comparatively higher, as the amount was to be divided amongst the four persons.
Our steps were a few yards away from the glacier which we were to walk over. A colourless sheet of snow was before us. A current of pleasure engulfed us, as we began treading over the snow path. Snow on our left was about four feet high and zero on our right. A warning rope was tied on fixed poles on our right to guide the pedestrians and animals to walk on safer side. We walked on snow with the help of bamboo sticks sometimes pricking them into snow. This small part of the journey, special in its being and over a hundred feet in length was very risky. Traffic passed over it on both the sides. One could slip, so, maximum care had to be taken while crossing this length of the path. Praying and singing hymns, the yatris went on. On the snow path, human figures looked pygmies against the backdrop of the huge plate of snow. Two men were busy on the job to maintain the path clear of snow, with shovels. Ripples of fear were felt in spine while the glacier passage was trudged.
After crossing the snow, we again found some dhabas by the roadside with the yatris sitting inside them. We had our snacks, edibles, soft drinks and dry fruits with us, which were being used to beat hunger and fatigue. The glacier was now to our left and appeared as if touching the sky. Few bends changed our direction. Now, to the left of our zigzag path lay countless black large cube like boulders, which appeared to have broken apart from the high peaks in the process of natural geographic changes. Even under these huge stones, water oozed out.
Now, we were crossing over an improvised bridge under which fast stream of snow water flowed tumultuously. There were no safety planks on the sides of this bridge. One had to be very vigilant while crossing over this bridge, as any passing by horse could knock one down.
After crossing the bridge, we reached a very important place where the path bifurcated into two - one long branch for the horses and the other shorter one for the pedestrians. The short path was totally arduous, as it comprised 1125 upward steps. We opted for the steps and bowing to the Welcome Gate built at the start of the footsteps, we started the uphill journey on stone steps. It was a very tough step climbing but not an obstacle for the Guru's devotees.
The steps were formed by fixing large stone plates, cut stones and pieces of requisite sizes for dovetailing and ensuring maximum possible stability. One would wonder, how defty hands had erected the step walls with precision without using cement, mortar and iron. The workmanship reflected devotion and selfless service to the yatris with the blessings of Sri Guru Gobind Singh Ji.
After every few steps, a plain resting place was made to enable the yatris to bring the breathing rate back to normal. It was heartening to note that the entire service upto the formation and maintenance of these steps was done by the Border Roads Organisation. That was a tough and telling work which they undertook in the selfless service of the Guru and His yatris.
As we progressed, the yatris returning from the Gurudwara Hemkund Sahib infused courage into the up-going pilgrims, saying: Buck up-you have done it-Gurudwara is just at hand-"Bole So Nihal Sat Sri Akal.. .etc.," The returning yatris were darting downwards whereas we were yet to reach our destination. Getting invigorated with the courage booster capsules, there was some load shedding of weariness in our bodies. By now, we were having a sense of fulfillment of our cherished objective-' Darshan Snaan' of Sri ‘Hemkund Sahib’.
www.hemkundji.com
ARRIVAL AT SRI HEMKUND SAHIB
Twelve
ARRIVAL AT SRI HEMKUND SAHIB
A few steps before the last step, the Nishan Sahib was visible. There were still some minutes to eleven. We could not be sure to attend the Ardas at 11: 15. Even then, we tried to be agile. Now, we were at the last stair. In our front was the Nishan Sahib, the Gurudwara, the view of the holy Sarovar, high peaks around it and the gleaming glaciers rising towards the skies like white graphics on the chest of large sprawling mountains. In sight, there were devotees everywhere. We moved on slowly full of joy and with a sense of blessings. To our left was the langar hall and to the right side the end of the horse road.
As is generally advised that after arrival one should take bath in the Sarovar at the earliest; otherwise, if fatigue and body warmth give way to slumber, one's body may be at pains to tolerate dip in the snow water. It was observed that the yatris were aware of this fact. After paying respects at the Nishan Sahib, we made for the Sarovar straight. After crossing the imposing entrance gate, the ground was almost even and one could walk effortlessly slowly balancing state of the body. At that time the feeling of fatigue relegated as one was totally taken over by the charming place about which we had already heard a lot.
www.hemkundji.com
ARRIVAL AT SRI HEMKUND SAHIB
A few steps before the last step, the Nishan Sahib was visible. There were still some minutes to eleven. We could not be sure to attend the Ardas at 11: 15. Even then, we tried to be agile. Now, we were at the last stair. In our front was the Nishan Sahib, the Gurudwara, the view of the holy Sarovar, high peaks around it and the gleaming glaciers rising towards the skies like white graphics on the chest of large sprawling mountains. In sight, there were devotees everywhere. We moved on slowly full of joy and with a sense of blessings. To our left was the langar hall and to the right side the end of the horse road.
As is generally advised that after arrival one should take bath in the Sarovar at the earliest; otherwise, if fatigue and body warmth give way to slumber, one's body may be at pains to tolerate dip in the snow water. It was observed that the yatris were aware of this fact. After paying respects at the Nishan Sahib, we made for the Sarovar straight. After crossing the imposing entrance gate, the ground was almost even and one could walk effortlessly slowly balancing state of the body. At that time the feeling of fatigue relegated as one was totally taken over by the charming place about which we had already heard a lot.
www.hemkundji.com
AT SRI. HEMKUND SAHIB
Thirteen
AT SRI. HEMKUND SAHIB
While enjoying the scenic beauty of nature all around us, we reached the Sarovar and sat near another Nishan Sahib. PARAMJEET rested while I readied for dips. The weather was clear. There were no clouds above in the sky at that time. The air was prickly cold. Before taking a dip, I held some water in my hands. I felt as if a ball of snow was in my hands. Truly, it was snow water. Praying to the Lord, immediately I enjoyed taking one dip. Really, it felt different. Within seconds I took the second dip. Quickly I came back and dressed up briskly. PARAMJEET went to the ladies chamber for bathing. She returned after sometime. The changed clothes were packed in a plastic bag. Although wet, those were not to be rinsed in the holy Sarovar, called ‘Amrit Sarovar’.
Two sides of the Sarovar were used for bathing purposes. The number of dips one wished to take depended on the health and the will of the person. Small children screamed at the touch of cold water, whereas healthy children enjoyed bathing. To our right was a tin shed built for the yatris to sit under or change clothes during bad weather. People sat, chatted and roamed about to enjoy the maximum in the minimum available time, as after the third Ardas, the devotees were required to leave the premises, at the earliest.
Despite the best of our efforts, we could not participate in the second Ardas, which was over by 11: 15 a.m. Actually, Bhai ji had started giving Sermons from the Gurbani by 11 a.m. when we had just crossed the last stair and were moving towards the Sarovar. We listened to the whole of the Sermons and Ardas while we were busy taking the bath. Before having "Snaan" in the holy Sarovar, we were not to pay obeisance in the Gurudwara. Enticed by the beauty of the Sarovar and its surroundings, we took some photographs.
Now, our first aim was to go inside the Gurudwara and offer prayers. After arranging clothes etc., we proceeded towards the Gurudwara.
The Gurudwara was a wooden-cum-concrete structure having many ground compartments and an upper floor. The roof had been designed hunch back and sloppy to speed down the snowflakes and keep it free of weight. We were facing that unique Gurudwara, about which volumes had been heard and which had been seen only in books and on photo charts.
We entered the Gurudwara from the Sarovar side. The ground floor had a surface made of wooden planks. Over it were spread many jute mattresses. A portion housed shoe racks. It had four doors-one each facing the main direction.
We moved on to the upper floor and entered the main hall. In our sight now was the highly decorated Guru Granth Sahib. The entire floor was covered with durries.
Blankets were available for use by the yatris to enable them sit comfortably inside the Gurudwara. A number of windows were there. One could see far off, when the sky was clear of clouds. We prayed before the Darbar Sahib and retreated to take rest and enjoy the grandeur of the Gurudwara. Many of our companions were already sitting there in the warmth of blankets. We took some photographs with our camera. Our group donated a brass KHANDA with an imposing EAGLE fixed on top of it. Two large iron trunks were also offered for safe keeping of blankets in the Gurudwara. All that could be done due to the selfless service of the chief organizer of the Yatra. He is so blessed by the Lord that he has so far made 25 visits to Hemkund Sahib. He was well conversant with the details of route, Gurudwara staff en-route and at Gobind Ghat, Gobind Dham and at Hemkund Sahib.
After a brief rest, we proceeded towards the langar hall along with some other friends. Khichri and tea were served as langar. Both these items were energy agents, as nothing equivalent had been taken en-route. Normal langar items i.e. Chapatti, dal, rice etc. were not prepared there, as due arrangement couldn’t be made nor that was necessary due to short stay of the yatris and the nature of the journey. PARAMJEET utilized some minutes in the service of utensils. Meanwhile I scanned the skies and the fugitive clouds with rampant attention. Some clouds were hovering inside the valleys like cotton fiber while some were passing over the high mountain peaks.
Again, w
AT SRI. HEMKUND SAHIB
While enjoying the scenic beauty of nature all around us, we reached the Sarovar and sat near another Nishan Sahib. PARAMJEET rested while I readied for dips. The weather was clear. There were no clouds above in the sky at that time. The air was prickly cold. Before taking a dip, I held some water in my hands. I felt as if a ball of snow was in my hands. Truly, it was snow water. Praying to the Lord, immediately I enjoyed taking one dip. Really, it felt different. Within seconds I took the second dip. Quickly I came back and dressed up briskly. PARAMJEET went to the ladies chamber for bathing. She returned after sometime. The changed clothes were packed in a plastic bag. Although wet, those were not to be rinsed in the holy Sarovar, called ‘Amrit Sarovar’.
Two sides of the Sarovar were used for bathing purposes. The number of dips one wished to take depended on the health and the will of the person. Small children screamed at the touch of cold water, whereas healthy children enjoyed bathing. To our right was a tin shed built for the yatris to sit under or change clothes during bad weather. People sat, chatted and roamed about to enjoy the maximum in the minimum available time, as after the third Ardas, the devotees were required to leave the premises, at the earliest.
Despite the best of our efforts, we could not participate in the second Ardas, which was over by 11: 15 a.m. Actually, Bhai ji had started giving Sermons from the Gurbani by 11 a.m. when we had just crossed the last stair and were moving towards the Sarovar. We listened to the whole of the Sermons and Ardas while we were busy taking the bath. Before having "Snaan" in the holy Sarovar, we were not to pay obeisance in the Gurudwara. Enticed by the beauty of the Sarovar and its surroundings, we took some photographs.
Now, our first aim was to go inside the Gurudwara and offer prayers. After arranging clothes etc., we proceeded towards the Gurudwara.
The Gurudwara was a wooden-cum-concrete structure having many ground compartments and an upper floor. The roof had been designed hunch back and sloppy to speed down the snowflakes and keep it free of weight. We were facing that unique Gurudwara, about which volumes had been heard and which had been seen only in books and on photo charts.
We entered the Gurudwara from the Sarovar side. The ground floor had a surface made of wooden planks. Over it were spread many jute mattresses. A portion housed shoe racks. It had four doors-one each facing the main direction.
We moved on to the upper floor and entered the main hall. In our sight now was the highly decorated Guru Granth Sahib. The entire floor was covered with durries.
Blankets were available for use by the yatris to enable them sit comfortably inside the Gurudwara. A number of windows were there. One could see far off, when the sky was clear of clouds. We prayed before the Darbar Sahib and retreated to take rest and enjoy the grandeur of the Gurudwara. Many of our companions were already sitting there in the warmth of blankets. We took some photographs with our camera. Our group donated a brass KHANDA with an imposing EAGLE fixed on top of it. Two large iron trunks were also offered for safe keeping of blankets in the Gurudwara. All that could be done due to the selfless service of the chief organizer of the Yatra. He is so blessed by the Lord that he has so far made 25 visits to Hemkund Sahib. He was well conversant with the details of route, Gurudwara staff en-route and at Gobind Ghat, Gobind Dham and at Hemkund Sahib.
After a brief rest, we proceeded towards the langar hall along with some other friends. Khichri and tea were served as langar. Both these items were energy agents, as nothing equivalent had been taken en-route. Normal langar items i.e. Chapatti, dal, rice etc. were not prepared there, as due arrangement couldn’t be made nor that was necessary due to short stay of the yatris and the nature of the journey. PARAMJEET utilized some minutes in the service of utensils. Meanwhile I scanned the skies and the fugitive clouds with rampant attention. Some clouds were hovering inside the valleys like cotton fiber while some were passing over the high mountain peaks.
Again, w